Paris

Review: Le Cinq

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EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED

It’s been my passion. Over the years. To track excellence  and celebrate it. And while doing so…it’s the unexpected that kickstarts my adrenalin. And here  in this magnificent  Parisian landmark, I thrill to expect the unexpected. For almost a century, George V has been the epitome and the definition of Parisian luxury and elegance.

Le Cinq, it’s gastronomique restaurant been showered with three Michelin stars continuously. The sheer stratospheric excellence impeccable luxurious detailing has set a global benchmark. It has been home to the who’s who of the world. Located in the most luxurious part of Paris (where its secret aristocracy has lived for ages) the legendary Hotel George V reigns in its Franco-British aesthetic splendour. And amidst this exquisite Parisian splendour are two superlative surprises…Le George a down-to-earth Mediterranean restaurant   and an amazing all-vegetarian menu in LOrangerie, it’s other restaurant.

A DOWN TO EARTH MASTERPIECE

Simply superb. Superbly simple.No two ways about it. It’s the worlds most luscious onion, plump with flavour and melt in the mouth too. It took the brilliant chef Simone Zanoni  four whole days to cook it to his magical secret recipe, handed down to him by his grandmother. And this is just the beginning of the amazing masterpieces that’s sashay in. The brilliant young chef focuses on organic, local and grows his own vegetables and herbs. I taste one amazing creation after another infused with the chef’s personal influences and inspirations, such as the signature Le George dish the onion tarte tatin with parmesan sorbet. His creation of the Tomato tart with cacciopepe icecream dazzles.

Having worked with Gordon Ramsay, Chef Zanoni now helms Le George which has  been making waves ever since it opened and also received i. Le George serves up Mediteranean magic

And does so amid shimmering priceless Baccarat chandeliers, mirrors and Lalique crystal. Healthy and light fare  is all about “harmonious cuisine from the heart”  an amazingly balanced and healthy menu (plenty of vegetarian too).  This  Le George more than lives up to the royal legacy it has inherited, after all it is born to the iconic George V, the hotel of kings and the king of hotels.

RECIPE

PASTA PERFECT

Chef Zanoni’s pasta is perfection. He generously shares the recipe

Tortelli Ricotta Lemon and Mint Recipe

Dough :

-550g of flour type 45

-350g of egg yolk

-5g salt, 5g olive oil

Ricotta stuffing:

-500g of ricotta

-70g grated Parmesan cheese

-40g of pecorino grated

-20g of egg yolk

-Sel, pepper PM

Make the dough by mixing all the elements with the robot cut, knead, well squeezed and let rest in the fridge 2 hours.

Make the stuffing by mixing all the elements in a container and then remove in pastry pockets.

Spread the dough using a rolling mill to have a parte about 2mm thick, arrange the dough on the worktop and prepare hazelnuts of ricotta stuffing the size of your cookie cutter on the half of the dough then fold the dough on itself, then cut the tortelli with the help of your cookie cutter.

Cook the tortelli in salted water for 1 minute,

prepare a pan with water and half-salted butter, a pinch of pepper and 2g of organic Sicilian lemon peel, remove the tortelli in the pan containing the mixture then finish cooking in the pan and at the end added chopped mint, then set on plate.

 VEGETARIAN WIZARDRY

Great news! The one Michelin starred Lorangerie is presenting the most fascinating and gourmet vegetarian menu Ive ever tasted. When I wrote and researched the Worlds first vegetarian guide to Paris (published by Times of India and partnered by GeorgeV) I ate my way through my beloved city for two years. But this is the first time I actually watch the creation and innovation of a series of stunningly sublime vegetarian dishes.

And I do so in a modern conservatory of 7-metre high glass and–steel structure, which blends seamlessly with the architectural Art Deco style of the hotel with stunning views of the Courtyard  dotted with orchids.

Creative Sublime wizardry of simplicity… finest of seasonal ingredients dazzle. Take a bow brilliant chefs!

The genius Christian Lesquer of their gastronomique restaurant  and Alan Taudon  coax amazing flavors out of the freshest and finest of vegetables and present them with panache. Delicate gems of wizardry dazzle. And sparkle!

Along with Jean Claude Wietzel  we taste our way through the concise, seasonal menu in which tradition is updated thanks to elegant, perfumed notes and a delicate blend of flavours.

The chefs  reliably turn what’s already enjoyable into something very remarkable. And pure vegetarian too!

 

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SUPERSTARRED VEGETARIAN

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Breaking news! Delicious news! Especially for vegetarians and vegetarian food lovers. At the iconic King of hotels and the hotel of kings, George V in Paris, their one Michelin starred Lorangerie is presenting the most fascinating and gourmet vegetarian menu Ive ever tasted. When I wrote and researched the Worlds first vegetarian guide to Paris (published by Times of India and partnered by GeorgeV) I ate my way through my beloved city for two years. But this is the first time I actually watch the creation and innovation of a series of stunningly sublime vegetarian dishes. The genius Christian Lesquer of their gastronomique restaurant  and Alan Taudon  coax amazing flavors out of the freshest and finest of vegetables and present them with panache. Delicate gems of wizardry dazzle. And sparkle!

Three Michelin starred chef Christian Lesquer and Jean Claude Wietzel at the vegetarian tasting of Lorangerie.

ICONS IN PARIS

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Francois Delahaye handing over the Plaza Athenee book to Prime Minister Modi

Im in Paris to complete my thesis “The rise and the rise of vegetarianism” .  And so spending most of my time meeting my mentors and professors in the university. Also  part of my research is the most beautiful Parisian landmark. Here, Im not only tripping out on the finest French cuisine, history and culture but also the most amazing vegetarian masterpieces.

For more than a hundred years Plaza Athenee has exemplified modernity luxury and timelessness Any wonder this  Parisian landmark is patronised by our very own  Prime Minister Modi (confirmed vegetarian) heads of state, royalty, movie moghuls, haute couteriers and superstars from all fields.

Helmed by. Superstar Francois Delahaye over decades it has played host. to. many a superstar. And our very own Prime minister Modi too.

For some inexplicable reason vegetarianism is always associated with asceticism,  the opposite of luxury and with tasteless food. But here maestro Alain Ducasse busts all those myths. It’s a starry glamorous experience in every sense of the term…Luxury drips in ten thousand Swaroski pendants which dangle instead of chandeliers.

Its amazing that here in this temple to high gastronomy the gardener is  given as much importance as the chefs. And only vegetables cereals and fish are served here.I watch chef Romain Meder create the most delicious luxurious vegetarian haute cuisine. And he shares the recipes too. Should you want any please email rashmiudaysingh18@gmail.com

RECIPE: THE WORLD’S BEST FRENCH TOAST

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Its memorable. Its incomparable. I refer to the amazing spectrum of tastes, flavours, cultures that I am feasting on. Here in France’s most magnificent over a century old  landmark, Im not only tripping out on the finest French cuisine, history and culture but also the most amazing vegetarian masterpieces.

Prime minister Mody being handed the Plaza Athenee book by Francois Delahaye.

Any wonder this Parisian landmark is patronised by our very own  Prime Minister ModI (confirmed vegetarian) heads of state, royalty, movie moghuls, haute couteriers and superstars from all fields.

For more than a hundred years this landmark has exemplified modernity luxury and timelessness Helmed by. Superstar Francois Delahaye over decades it has played host. to. many a superstar. And our very own Prime minister Mody too.

  Haute cuisine and haute couture are being seamlessly celebrated here. And Im overjoyed that “naturalness’ cuisines’ vegetarian masterpieces are  created in Michelin starred maestro Alain Ducasse’s shimmering restaurant located  in the iconic couture landmark Plaza Athenee.

For some inexplicable reason vegetarianism is always associated with asceticism,  the opposite of luxury and with tasteless food. But here maestro Alain Ducasse busts all those myths. It’s a starry glamorous experience in every sense of the term…Luxury drips in ten thousand Swaroski pendants which dangle instead of chandeliers. And the hushed elegance coddles and pampers like no other.

Michelinstarred maestro Alain Ducasse points out “To eat more healthily and naturally is today both an expectation and a necessity that must be translated into the field of haute cuisine”. And this is done by using only  exceptional produce. “This is the cuisine I sincerely love This very personal interpretation is indeed, here, in my restaurant at the Plaza Athénée.” Concludes the maestro.

Alain Ducasse designed his cuisine at the Plaza Athénée around the vegetables-cereal-fish trilogy. Its amazing that here in this temple to high gastronomy the gardener is being given as much importance as the chefs.

Chef Romain Meder with his vegetarian masterpiece

It goes without saying that the brilliant chef in the restaurant Romain Meder, ensures that the technical base of French haute cuisine remains intact and delivers the most luxurious vegetarian haute cuisine too.

 The food is not only healthier and more natural, more respectful of the Planet but it dazzles with flavour and taste. Therein lies its memorable magic.

 I watch Chef Romain Meder in action in the gleaming kitchens and admire the way he delivers a free and nearly instinctive interpretation of Haute Cuisine, revealing the produces’ original flavour, from the noble to the humble, all exceptional.


THE WORLDS BEST FRENCH TOAST

Where did I find the worlds best French toast? In the best Parisian Michelin starred landmark, Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee ofcourse. I could write a sonnet to it and still would not be able to express it’s dazzling exceptional texture so moist plump with flavour. Created by Winner of the World Pastry Cup and several other prestigious awards

Meilleur ouvrier de France Angelo Musa and Guillame Cabrol.

Ive always been a fan of The French toast, whose recipe dates back to the 4th or 5th century. Over centuries and in different countries it has had different names aliter dulcia(“another sweet dish”)

 Arme Ritter(“poor knights”)But the usual French name is pain perdu interestingly translates to  “lost bread”, reflecting its use of stale or otherwise “lost” bread. There are many versions and names but heres not only the worlds the best French toast but also its recipe, generously shared by  Pastry world champion Chef Angelo Must.

 

French Toast 

 

 

Ingredients:

oatmeal flour 785 g

Salt 15 g

Sugar 111g

Yeast 330 g

Eggs 480 g

Butter 490 g

Method

Kneat flavour, salt, sugar, yeast and the eggs until the dough is soft.

Add cold butter in three times.

Knead again until the dough is soft.

Leave for 30 minutes.

Form a ball and then a sausage shape.

 Put it in a form  (height 15 cm large 15 cm long 40 cm)

Leave the dough for 4 hours.

Put it in the oven for 1 hour – 160 °C.

 And I actually have this toast at breakfast. The most luxurious way to begin the day…he amazing array of boulangerie baked fresh. Chocolate croissants, butter croissants, brioche,  sultana swirls
walnut and lemon croissants, chocolate and pistachio pastries and kugelhopf too.
The menu is in English, Japanese, Russian, Chinese,
Spanish and, of course, French ensuring that everybody can
spread the message to every corner of the globe that breakfast
at the Plaza Athénée is the best in Paris! And it’s French toast the best in the world.  Which it is.

TASTING THE VEGETARIAN ICON

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 I’ve done it again and again. In the gourmet capitals of the world…Paris, London, Tokyo, New York. Tasted the emblematic dish  of  the seventeen Michelin starred maestro Alain Ducasse’s culinary philosophy. A symbol of “sincere cuisine”– a harmony of flavors– that is both respectful to the environment and to health. And that too in restaurants located in the world’s most legendary hotels. I refer to the cookpot…Alain Ducasse’s world renowned signature dish He serves up seasonal vegetables from the local terroir cooked in the cookpot. And this seemingly simple pot  is used from the stove to the table.

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DUCASSE’S WORLD RENOWNED COOKPOT…

It’s truly a “sensual”  dish with an aesthetic that cradles and caresses the food. It’s almost feminine and womb like and Ducasse’s inspiration for it is from his grandmother. “We must restart from the beginning, where the true tastes are […] the technique here is to reveal the flavour of nature,” announced this maestro many years ago. And this simply superb and superbly simple dish has a basic recipe which is the same across all of Ducasse’s restaurants, with the mushroom duxelle and at least seven local, seasonal vegetables. The pot itself is a design masterpiece that is contemporary and nostalgic ( created by Pierre Tachon  it owes it’s attractive curves and perfect proportions to porcelain manufacturer Pillivuyt)

Over the years I’ve been getting high on the cookpot in Ducasse’s restaurants around the world.

Be it London’s Dorchester, Paris’s Plaza Athenee, these finest of all hotels are reputed for infusing into their essence the glamour, excitement, and creativity of the people who have been regulars here.

Today I share with you my most recent taste of this dish in three memorable venues.

PARIS :LUXURIOUS VEGETARIAN WOWS

Please take a look at the photograph, shot in the gleaming kitchen of Paris’ most stylish address Plaza Athenee, which serves up the best of the best. Including Alain Ducasse’s shimmering temple to gastronomy which has the gardener’s name on the menu and serves only vegetables, grain and fish. Luxury drips in 10,000 Swarovski pendant-like chandeliers and it is here that I’ve had the most fabulous meals  coddled by immaculate service and brilliant attention to detail.

On this recent trip I not only had the most exceptional was fixated on Ducasse’s brand new book on vegetarian cooking (which the gifted Chef Romain Meder is holding along with the dynamic chief of the Dorchester group Francois Delahaye).

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 Alain Ducasse with Jean Phillipe Blondet  at the Dorchester (black and white photo by Pierre Monetta).
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 Chef Romain Meder with Francois Delahaye at Plaza Athenee.

GOD HAS COME TO LONDON…Dorchester

“God has come to London” swooned  critics when Ducasse set up in London’s legendary landmark  The Dorchester. I’d first dined at Ducasse’s  newly opened restaurant and went back several times again. Here reality is more luxurious than fantasy.   Amid the cloud, surrounded by a luminiscient oval curtain, Id gotten high on the classic French-driven menu  I still remember the tastes and textures of  the “delicate soft Royale of greens”  a glorious medley of vegetables with an ever enlarging circle of freshness. And of course that cookpot, heady and perfect.And I still marvel at how the grand hotel continues to tango with high octane young energy.

BREAKING NEWS…On the River Seine

Its making international waves. It’s an unrivalled Parisian experience. And its has just been launched. It’s a floating masterpiece of Paris history and landmarks. It’s been overbooked since it opened and it took planning ahead to get a table here.

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By the Eiffel tower, sailing on the brand new Ducasse sur Seine
…Ines Aouididi flanked by Herve Garnier and Ulysse Bour.

 I’m on board the brand new super luxurious restaurant “Ducasse sur seinne” that has just opened and is making international waves. As the Eiffel tower sparkles on the hour of eight,  Captain Ulysee Boar and Ines Ioudidi   flag off our luxurious meal. Luxurious dining gets redefined. Sailing & Feasting on Parisian landmarks and  emblematic French  food too. Serenditpitiously we are sailing past  my favorite Alexanders bridge when my favorite vegetarian Cookpot is served up. The specially-created, single-serving cocotte, delicious with spelt and violet artichokes is memorable. All created in the bespoke kitchens which sprawl on the lower deck Champagne sparkled the beginning of the dinner. And a parade of dishes sashay in as the silent electric boat glides to music. The meal meanders from the delicate Foie gras pâté  to the Chocolate  crispy praline accompanied by the finest wines, a symphony of the best French Crus. All this amid lighting by Franck Franjoy from lunar cold to candle warm, a coddling of  music and sound  and uberfab  interiors. And ooh! that cookpot…and yes! the maestro has very generously shared the recipe with me, should you need it, please do mail rashmiudaysingh18@gmail.com

LUXURIOUS VEGETARIAN WOWS

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Please take a look at the photograph, shot with France’s most revered Michelin-starred maestro Alain Ducasse in his iconic restaurant’s gleaming kitchen. The focus is their brand new book on vegetarian cooking which the gifted Chef Romain Meder is holding. When I researched and wrote the Worlds first vegetarian guide to Paris (published by The Times of India) this gleaming glittering Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee took center stage. It has the gardener’s name on the menu and serves only vegetables, grain and fish. Aptly ensconced in Paris’ most stylish address Plaza Athenee, it continues to offer the best of the best. Including the most luxurious breakfast in the French capital, which is what the dynamic chief of the Dorchester group Francois Delahaye, St Petersburg’s brilliant restaurateur and ballerina Matilda Shnurova and I were luxuriating in when we got to know that Alain Ducasse was in the kitchen. He is unstoppable, his brand new restaurant in a super luxurious electric boat was even more exciting than dining on the Eiffel tower. But that’s another story!

FOR THE BOX....
My Memorable Michelin Moment; Alain Ducasse, Romain Meder (holding the book) Matilda Shnurova at Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee.

STUDY TIME IN PARIS

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Back to school…studying, upgrading  and updating one’s knowledge is crucial. And to do it in the best of the best is exciting. And that too in Paris, the worlds gourmet capital. The second half of our course is in the land of champagne, at the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne.

At  Hautes Etudes du Goût (Advanced Studies in Taste) multidisciplinary training programme I,m learning from the eminent university professors, researchers, experts,  food professionals and even the revered Herve This, the father of Molecular gastronomy. We re focusing on the culture of taste, gastronomy and the art of fine dining. From going at 2 AM (yes!) to the worlds largest fresh produce market Rungis, Paris to paired, tutored food and wine dinners at Michelin restaurants and back-breaking 10 hour lectures on historic, scientific, economic and sociological aspects of gastronomy.   There is a written exam tomorrow and a thesis to be submitted. Excuse me as I go back to my studies…

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The best of the best:
Mr Rémi Krug, Chairman of HEG, Ms Edwige Régnier, HEG project manager, Mrs Colette Padet, Director of Studies, Mr Guillaume Gellé, President of the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne.

TASTING THE TIMELESS CLASSIC IN PARIS

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Mind boggling choices here. Should I take a class in it’s most legendary cooking school? Feast in the Michelin starred uber luxurious restaurant? Dine on traditional brasserie classics? Or take a sip of history in my favourite author Ernest Hemingways favourite bar ? Not to mention that it has the city’s best swimming pool (perfect to burn calories and build up an appetite) Over the years I’ve been doing it all. One step at a time. For sure this ain’t no mere Parisian hotel. It’s a global legend. It is over a hundred years old and still in line with the times. It has not only been witness to history but has even rewritten history, inspired trailblazers and blazed many a trend itself. Beloved of literary geniuses (Hemingway, Proust et al) movie stars, fashion legends, this is the only hotel in the world whose name become part of our vocabulary and  has even inspired the  song “Putting on the Ritz” ( dress fashionably). Founded in 1898 by two of the worlds greatest names in hospitality, Cesar Ritz and the greatest French Chef  Auguste Escoffieur it was the first to have lifts, electricity and private bathrooms. A few years ago it went through renovations but preserved its period furniture and paintings à la Louis XV et al. Christian Boyens who helms this landmark ensures that it continues to be the queen of hotels and hotel of queens.

THE GREAT TABLES OF THE WORLD

Whoa! So many stars in the afternoon? A few days ago, at the iconic Ritz, I attended the  elegant and exclusive launch of the prestigious Les Grand Table du Monde 2018 (the great tables of the world).Only Michelin starred chefs present at the launch of this guide  established in 1954 to “defend the values of great gastronomy and the art of living” covers 26 countries, across five continents and features 172 restaurants. President  David Sinapian, presented the Guide and the ten new members in the salons of the iconic Ritz Paris. My co chairperson of the Worlds 50 best restaurant academy.  Nicolas Chatenier flagged off the delicious afternoon with his welcome speech. And a memorial tribute to Paul Bocuse, caviar, oysters to Baba au rum and DomPerignon sparkled the afternoon. It was the brilliant starred chefs who lit up the afternoon.  Three starred Alain Ducasse, George Blanc  to Pierre Hermes and Yannick Alleno. And playing the perfect host was Chef Nicolas Sale. Ritz’s  Michelin-starred restaurant L’Espadon (swordfish),  shimmering with mirrors, chandeliers, Louis XV chairs, porcelain and silver cloches  continues to provide the perfect setting for  his imaginative creations. Fresh from a two-star restaurant in Chamonix, he brings a contemporary vision to luxury ingredients, as in his three-stage starters (lure, raw, cooked) like langoustine with caviar and a main course of Bresse chicken for two.

 HEMINGWAY’S HIGH

Named after the noble prize winning author (and my hero)  Ernest Hemingway, this charming iconic bar weaves magic. Heres an excerpt from my book “A vegetarian in Paris” (A Times Publication).

“Just what do you think the renowned American author Hemingway did in this bar which he loved? Knock back martinis ofcourse, but, the unverified story goes that its thanks to his boozing ways that the “Bloody Mary” was invented here. “Make a drink which I can drink all day and which doesn’t stay on my breath” he boomed at the Ritz bartender “so that when I go home, bloody Mary cannot smell it”. Mary was the third (or was it fourth wife?) of this colorful, lovable author. Infact, after the World war and the German occupation of this hotel, it was Hemingway who was the first to bring in his buddies and “liberate” the hotel. The award winning mixologist, Colin Field  helms this masculine, cozy  warm wood paneled bar with leather chairs and high stools studded with his photos and of  famous authors were regulars here (Scott Fitzgerald, James Joyce  to name a couple). On the menu are a few veggie dishes (artichoke platter, risotto) and many a Hemingway favorite cocktail too.”

And this time at this star among the bars (done up with original photos and letters from Hemingway) I once again elbowed my way into the packed space to chat with brilliant bar chief Colin Peter Field and request him for his Bloody Mary recipe. Should you want it, please email me rashmiudaysingh18@gmail.com

COOKING SCHOOL

It was an amazing dream come true…I attended a cooking class by the world famous Japanese chef Nobu at this legendary.

Ritz-Escoffier School of French Gastronomy in the Ritz. The ethos of the school is based on Escoffier’s words, “Good cuisine is the foundation of true happiness.”  It offers training courses and workshops for amateur and professional cooks and I never miss a chance of attending one.

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Michelin starred chef Nicolas sale flanked by Nicolas Chatenier and David Sinapian at the Ritz.
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Redefining luxury: Christian Boyens chief of the Ritz Paris.
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Nobel prize winner author Ernest Hemingway.
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Colin Field bar manager of Bar hemingway.

MORE DELICIOUS DISCOVERIES

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Please take a look at the accompanying photograph (shot amid mountains, an hours drive from Paris.) I’ve shot it  on this snowy morning after having just taken an invigorating dip in the outdoor hot Norwegian tub. Had a delicious organic breakfast (with the home made jams on freshly baked yeasty bread). It’s all part of “Echo” the philosophy of well-being which runs through it’s beauty and lifestyle organic products and food in Chateau de Sacy, this beautiful  castle on a hill in the midst of vineyards. Chef Nicolas Christoforretti, infuses his cuisine with the culinary richness of the Champagne district. And the lovely Tiphaine Brossier ensures a seamless experience. I get high on this whole new aspect of wellness as I do on nature, art, history, culture and ofcourse champagne. After all I’m reporting from France’s  Champagne district where not only is the king of wines and the wine of kings made, but where thirty three French kings were crowned in the UNESCO heritage jewel of a  gothic cathedral. Sante!

FOR THE BOX (7)
Chateau de Sacy’s Organic and delicious jams, Norwegian baths and more: with chef  Nicolas Cristoforetti and maitre de Maison Tiphaine Brossier at Chateau de Sacy.