I’ve done it again and again. In the gourmet capitals of the world…Paris, London, Tokyo, New York. Tasted the emblematic dish of the seventeen Michelin starred maestro Alain Ducasse’s culinary philosophy. A symbol of “sincere cuisine”– a harmony of flavors– that is both respectful to the environment and to health. And that too in restaurants located in the world’s most legendary hotels. I refer to the cookpot…Alain Ducasse’s world renowned signature dish He serves up seasonal vegetables from the local terroir cooked in the cookpot. And this seemingly simple pot is used from the stove to the table.
It’s truly a “sensual” dish with an aesthetic that cradles and caresses the food. It’s almost feminine and womb like and Ducasse’s inspiration for it is from his grandmother. “We must restart from the beginning, where the true tastes are […] the technique here is to reveal the flavour of nature,” announced this maestro many years ago. And this simply superb and superbly simple dish has a basic recipe which is the same across all of Ducasse’s restaurants, with the mushroom duxelle and at least seven local, seasonal vegetables. The pot itself is a design masterpiece that is contemporary and nostalgic ( created by Pierre Tachon it owes it’s attractive curves and perfect proportions to porcelain manufacturer Pillivuyt)
Over the years I’ve been getting high on the cookpot in Ducasse’s restaurants around the world.
Be it London’s Dorchester, Paris’s Plaza Athenee, these finest of all hotels are reputed for infusing into their essence the glamour, excitement, and creativity of the people who have been regulars here.
Today I share with you my most recent taste of this dish in three memorable venues.
PARIS :LUXURIOUS VEGETARIAN WOWS
Please take a look at the photograph, shot in the gleaming kitchen of Paris’ most stylish address Plaza Athenee, which serves up the best of the best. Including Alain Ducasse’s shimmering temple to gastronomy which has the gardener’s name on the menu and serves only vegetables, grain and fish. Luxury drips in 10,000 Swarovski pendant-like chandeliers and it is here that I’ve had the most fabulous meals coddled by immaculate service and brilliant attention to detail.
On this recent trip I not only had the most exceptional was fixated on Ducasse’s brand new book on vegetarian cooking (which the gifted Chef Romain Meder is holding along with the dynamic chief of the Dorchester group Francois Delahaye).
GOD HAS COME TO LONDON…Dorchester
“God has come to London” swooned critics when Ducasse set up in London’s legendary landmark The Dorchester. I’d first dined at Ducasse’s newly opened restaurant and went back several times again. Here reality is more luxurious than fantasy. Amid the cloud, surrounded by a luminiscient oval curtain, Id gotten high on the classic French-driven menu I still remember the tastes and textures of the “delicate soft Royale of greens” a glorious medley of vegetables with an ever enlarging circle of freshness. And of course that cookpot, heady and perfect.And I still marvel at how the grand hotel continues to tango with high octane young energy.
BREAKING NEWS…On the River Seine
Its making international waves. It’s an unrivalled Parisian experience. And its has just been launched. It’s a floating masterpiece of Paris history and landmarks. It’s been overbooked since it opened and it took planning ahead to get a table here.
I’m on board the brand new super luxurious restaurant “Ducasse sur seinne” that has just opened and is making international waves. As the Eiffel tower sparkles on the hour of eight, Captain Ulysee Boar and Ines Ioudidi flag off our luxurious meal. Luxurious dining gets redefined. Sailing & Feasting on Parisian landmarks and emblematic French food too. Serenditpitiously we are sailing past my favorite Alexanders bridge when my favorite vegetarian Cookpot is served up. The specially-created, single-serving cocotte, delicious with spelt and violet artichokes is memorable. All created in the bespoke kitchens which sprawl on the lower deck Champagne sparkled the beginning of the dinner. And a parade of dishes sashay in as the silent electric boat glides to music. The meal meanders from the delicate Foie gras pâté to the Chocolate crispy praline accompanied by the finest wines, a symphony of the best French Crus. All this amid lighting by Franck Franjoy from lunar cold to candle warm, a coddling of music and sound and uberfab interiors. And ooh! that cookpot…and yes! the maestro has very generously shared the recipe with me, should you need it, please do mail firstname.lastname@example.org
Here’s to the power of Food and restaurants. Did you think Foodiesm is only about taste, excitement, creativity and great cooking? It’s much more. Foodiesm is a uniting global force.And it’s power is evident here in Bogota.
I write from the most prestigious, glittering Oscar of food awards, amid the largest gathering of Latin American chefs. Here, Latin America’s 50 best restaurants are being announced. Crowned as Latin America’s best is Maido, where the ever smiling Mitsuharu’s Peruvian- Japanese Nikkei cuisine dazzles. Due to space constraint I cannot possibly list the other exciting winning restaurants, cuisine trends on display or record the pathbreaking 50 best talks on the future of food, meat and vegetables.All nationalities are mingling, tasting, connecting and celebrating here.
Making it possible is the dreamteam of the Worlds 50 best restaurant academy from London who even in as far away as Latin America, encourage and award the finest 50 best restaurants, give diners an accurate compass to find the best, even promote tourism. It’s living proof that foodiesm is a good ism, it unites us all, it is understood in all languages. It knows no boundaries or frontiers. It is, in fact, the frontier to be on.
Juhu is the latest. Bangkok, Hong Kong, China, Tokyo, Manila, London and now Mumbai. Mango Tree put down it’s roots in Hotel Horizon, in March this year. As a rule, I’m wary of chain restaurants. So did a thorough and systematic check out over two meals spread over three months.
Read my full review in today’s Bombay Times.
Please take a look at the photograph, shot with France’s most revered Michelin-starred maestro Alain Ducasse in his iconic restaurant’s gleaming kitchen. The focus is their brand new book on vegetarian cooking which the gifted Chef Romain Meder is holding. When I researched and wrote the Worlds first vegetarian guide to Paris (published by The Times of India) this gleaming glittering Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee took center stage. It has the gardener’s name on the menu and serves only vegetables, grain and fish. Aptly ensconced in Paris’ most stylish address Plaza Athenee, it continues to offer the best of the best. Including the most luxurious breakfast in the French capital, which is what the dynamic chief of the Dorchester group Francois Delahaye, St Petersburg’s brilliant restaurateur and ballerina Matilda Shnurova and I were luxuriating in when we got to know that Alain Ducasse was in the kitchen. He is unstoppable, his brand new restaurant in a super luxurious electric boat was even more exciting than dining on the Eiffel tower. But that’s another story!
It’s high energy. Yet, it’s comforting. Open all day, it offers the comfort of an old family friend, with whom all generations are comfy. At night it morphs into a swinging star. Having attended a birthday dinner here, I checked it out subsequently at lunch with a charming mother and daughter gourmet duo.
Read my full review in today’s Bombay Times.
SHOOTING WITH THE STARS
Thrilling. Memorable. Delicious moments. Woven together in Los Angeles, when we were shooting for an international cooking competition for Netflix, the worlds largest streaming network. The India episode of The Final table, brought together superstars… Michelin starred celebrity chef Vineet Bhatia, awardwinning Actor Madhavan, Hasan Minhaj and yours truly as the India food critic on the judging panel. Amongst the 24 contestant chefs, there was only one from India… national award winning best female chef Amninder Sandhu. What did we all have in common? Shooting in Los Angeles super hitech Sony Pictures studio.
And of course, fittingly enough, Netflix hosted our stay in the most iconic of Los Angeles hotels…,
The LA landmark, “pretty woman hotel”, Beverly Wilshire. Located on the glamour boulevard to the world, the Rodeo drive, its been a favorite of Hollywood and Bollywood superstars for nine decades. Star spangled Hollywood dines ,meets and stays here and happily so do ShahRukh Khan, Preity Zinta, Anil Kapoor and others.
And it continues to rock with a youthful energy. Feeding this super glam contemporary buzz in this legendary hotel is our very own Executive chef Samir Roonwal Specialized in Contemporary International and Asian Cuisine. Having dined at Michelin starred Chef Vineet Bhatias restaurants in London Dubai and Mumbai, it was great to spend relaxed time with him lunching on the sundrenched patio of the BLVD. And nibbling on Chef Roonwal’s healthy and delicious creations with the forever helpful lovely Lauren Dutton Breen was a treat. Here, two of my passions come together in a sacred union, cutting edge food and plenty of vibrantly healthy fare too. Not only does Americas leading chef Wolfgang Puck’s CUT restaurant raise the bar but Chef Roonwal serves up equally spectacular healthy fare. Here’s a sample …
1 Whole Lemon Juice
4 Teaspoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/2 Teaspoon sea salt
1 Oz Caviar
10 ml Fennel Oil
1 Fennel Flower for Garnish (optional)
Freshly Cracked Black Pepper, To Taste
- Cut the Avocados in half and remove the stone and the skin.
- Slice the Avocado very thin and arrange it one by one in an overlapping form.
- Sprinkle lemon juice on the cut pieces. Season with salt and cracked Pepper.
- Brush some Fennel Oil on the Avocado.
- Garnish with a quenelle of and a fennel Flower.
UNDER THE STARS
First time ever… You can now sleep under the stars in this shimmering city of stars. Camping in a tent for two on the top of Beverly Hills most iconic landmark. “Glamping” just got redefined… a tent with a shimmering crystal chandelier, marble lamps, and plush rugs. Feasting not just on unparalleled, breathtaking city views but feasting also on te exclusive, 8 course gourmet glamping tasting menu which changes seasonally, in which every dish is customized to your choice. Chef Roonwal cooks this tasting menu in person, on the Veranda, using elevated takes on picnic table favorites. End with innovative reimagination of Campfire S’mores with 24k gold leaf from celebrity chef Chris Ford. Luxury drips in every practical detail. Here,reality is more exciting than fantasy!!!
Back to school…studying, upgrading and updating one’s knowledge is crucial. And to do it in the best of the best is exciting. And that too in Paris, the worlds gourmet capital. The second half of our course is in the land of champagne, at the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne.
At Hautes Etudes du Goût (Advanced Studies in Taste) multidisciplinary training programme I,m learning from the eminent university professors, researchers, experts, food professionals and even the revered Herve This, the father of Molecular gastronomy. We re focusing on the culture of taste, gastronomy and the art of fine dining. From going at 2 AM (yes!) to the worlds largest fresh produce market Rungis, Paris to paired, tutored food and wine dinners at Michelin restaurants and back-breaking 10 hour lectures on historic, scientific, economic and sociological aspects of gastronomy. There is a written exam tomorrow and a thesis to be submitted. Excuse me as I go back to my studies…
What! Ek aur naya health café? Last Friday I’d reviewed Bandra’s Farmer’s café. This week its South Mumbai’s Fab café. However, this one is different: A part of the “experience centre” of Fab India known for it’s ethnic Indian clothes et al.
Read my full review in today’s Bombay Times!
What you’re seeing on the table are not just delicious dishes but a taste of Hollywood history. The colourful salad Mc carthy was beloved of Elizabeth Taylor who honeymooned here four times in a row. And the plump Russian salad sandwich a favorite of Al Pacino, Brad Pitt and many a Hollywood superstar. The iconic Polo Lounge with its sundappled courtyard and immaculate food and service continues to breathe superglam Hollywood history. Over a century old, the pink palace, Hotel Beverly Hills has been magnetising Hollywood and is their mecca.
Pepe De Anda director of Polo Lounge for several decades embodies it’s gracious charm as I photograph him over our lunch with the beauty former Miss India Manasvi, Bollywood actress now taking Hollywood by storm. The sweet finale to our lunch? A curvaceous sundae (topped with candy floss). Marilyn Monroe’s favorite. Ofcourse!