recipe

ROCKSTAR FOOD at Sunset Marquis

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ROCKING FARE: ROD GRUENDYKE AND CHEF ROGER EGGLESTON
ROCKING FARE: ROD GRUENDYKE AND CHEF ROGER EGGLESTON

ROCKSTAR FOOD

It is here in this sundrenched glamorous city that I get my first taste of Rockstar food (literally too).

For the past 50 years, Sunset Marquis has been the secret hideaway for actors, writers, artists, filmmakers,  supermodels, restaurateurs, billionaire entrepreneurs and rock stars.

Interestingly, the stories of the Sunset Marquis and the history of rock ’n’ roll are inextricably intertwined. Several bands debuted in the bar here,  The Doors to Led Zeppelin. Neil Diamond ( used to perform by the pool to pay his tab) to  Elton John, Bruce Springsteen, George Clooney, Jennifer Aniston and many other regulars here.

BOLLYWOOD TO HOLLYWOOD

Amitabh Bachchan, Abhishek and Aishwarya Bachchan have stayed here and enjoyed not only the place but also the food. Moreover, it is the worlds only hotel which has a state of the art recording studio where many Grammy-winning songs have been recorded. Madonna has recorded here so has Elton John (to name a few). It is here that the winners of “American Idol” stay for months and even as I eat the most unique “cauliflower steak” Michael Bolton strolls past in the  3.5 acres of Mediterranean oasis tucked away on  a hill just off The Sunset Strip.

Guarding these superstar’s  “peace and privacy” for over 23 years is the dapper and dynamic Rod Gruendyke who is so passionate about his work that he started working as a manager of travel lodge, when he was 15 years old. Since then he has not only launched several prestigious hotels but continues to redefine hospitality. He recounts how actor  Kevin Costner bumped into the Bachchans and concluded a deal without having to go to India. Interestingly Rod is also a believer in Amma, the hugging saint and has a long-standing affinity for India.

TASTY AND HEALTHY

Taking care of the beautiful people’s  tastebuds and balancing it with their health and fitness needs is

the brilliant Chef Roger Eggleston. He believes in appreciating what the earth gives us, to never stop learning and using the braising technique, of searing and then cooking in a liquid. The trick is to keep the temperature

“low and slow” he points out. To intensify the flavor, he uses vegetable stock but adds apple to it. He shares his recipe…

Cauliflower Steak

  • 4 Cauliflower steaks cut 1 inch thick.  Make sure to leave some as the stem to hold it together
  • Vegetable stock
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • Sprig of thyme
  • 4 cloves of garlic

Season the cauliflower with salt.  Heat a heavy pan with some vegetable oil just until smoking.  Add the steaks and sear them until a nice color forms.  Flip them over; add just enough vegetable stock just to come up ½ way on the steaks.  Add the garlic and thyme and bring up to a simmer.  Place the pan in the oven and lightly braise just until tender:  about 15 minutes.  When done, remove from the liquid.

Garnish·     Corn grilled on the cobb and then cut off·     Cleaned morel mushrooms, lightly braised just as the cauliflower steaks·     1 tsp butter·     Sliced chives·     Baby fennel shave thin and placed in ice water·     Raw purple cauliflower·     Garlic blossoms

Heat the morel mushrooms up with some of their braising liquid, add the charred corn and finish with a little butter to glaze the vegetables.  Season with salt and finish with the sliced chives

You can make a Truffled Yogurt by

Whisking 4 egg yolks into yoghurt.  mustard, wine, canola oil,

squeezed lemon juice

To Plate

  • Spoon about 2 tbsp of the truffle yogurt onto the center of each plate· Place one cauliflower steak on top of the yogurt
  • Spoon the vegetable mix over the cauliflower steaks· Using a micro plane, grate the purple cauliflower all over the plate·     Garnish with the shaved fennel and garlic blossoms

Enjoy! keep rocking!

AMMA JAI HO!

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Amma and kalpana

I’m rejoicing! I’m getting a taste of centuries of family recipes lovingly passed down generations. Sure! There is plenty to be said about restaurants, about masterchefs, about modern and fusion cuisines too. But, give me original, authentic and traditional recipes anyday. They brim over with love, they preserve a flavor of history, tradition and culture. They  are created by home makers who keep in mind economy, speed, efficiency and health. These are steadily not only getting lost over time but also diluted and corrupted.

So when I come in contract with Gold medalist in  M.Sc maths, ex-  Scientist in Vikram Sarabhai Space Centre Kalpana Venkatesh a brilliant cook herself who continues to be inspired by her mother in law Muthulakshmi Gopalan, I am overjoyed.

“Amma” as she is affectionately called by her family is a  feisty and multi-talented native of Papanasam (Tirunelveli district). The seventy year old grand dame is extremely erudite, loves reading, is involved in family finance and family management and ofcourse her cooking is unmatched. Amma continues to have a very close  and affectionate relationship with her family, especially Appa.
MUTHULAKSHMI’S MUTHUS (PEARLS)

Muthulashmi (Amma)  learnt cooking from her mother Chellammal and with great precision and meticulousness has preserved each recipe. Traditional and authentic, these pure vegetarian recipes also inspire her daughter Viji.
Today, even their fourth generation of   Nethra , Nikhil and Raji love these dishes.

Harmonious flavors are coaxed out of Jaggery, nutmeg, urad dhall, rice, milk, ghee and more. Some are served as parsadam, some celebrate special occasions.

On my request Amma shares some of these recipes. Here’s my second request to them…that they preserve them in a book so that  the whole world can partake of Ammas recipes and love.


 

Pori Vilangai (Porulangai) Urundai

Ingredients

Moong dhal                                         = 4 cups

Jaggery                                                = 6 cups

Fresh coconut (cut into small pieces) = ½ cup

Cardamom powder                             = 1 tsp

(Optional) Dry ginger powder            = ½ tsp

 

Method:

 

Take a thick bottomed pan and dry fry the moong dhal, till it is golden brown and a nice aroma starts emanating.  Take care not to over brown it. Cool and grind it into a fine powder in a blender. Transfer the contents to a wide thali or plate. Add cardamom powder, dry ginger powder and mix well. Spread it out on the plate.

 

Take a thick bottomed vessel. Boil the jaggery in 150 ml water over medium flame, till it dissolves completely.  Strain for impurities. Reboil the jaggery water along with the coconut pieces till it comes to a consistency as follows: If you put a drop of the jaggery syrup in a cup of normal water, it should stay like a globule. Switch off the stove.

 

Add 2 laddles of jaggery syrup to a portion of the powdered dhal mix on the plate, just enough to be able to make into small laddu balls. Mix and make small laddus. Repeat this procedure, till the jaggery syrup and dhal mix get exhausted. Speed is very important here since otherwise the jaggery syrup tends to harden. These laddus have a shelf life of about 10 days

 

 

Variants:

 

Instead of 4 cups of moong dhall; we can use 3 cups of moong dhall and 1 cup of channa dhall.

 

  1. S:  This is an important traditional Tirunelveli (Tamil Nadu) sweet dish, served during Deepavali day.

 

Ukkarai ( Deepavali Sweet dish)

Ingredients

Channa dhal (Bengal gram)    = 400 grams

Jaggery                                    = 500 grams

Ghee                                        = 150 ml

Grated fresh coconut              = ½ cup

Cardamom powder                 = 1 tsp

Cashews                                  = 100 grams

Salt                                          = ¼ tsp

 

Method:

 

Soak Channa dhal in water for one hour with ¼ tsp salt.  Strain the channa dhal and grind to a thick paste in a blender without adding water. Spread the mixture in an idli plate and steam cook for 7 minutes (As similar to idli making).  Remove it from the idli plate and let it cool off for about 10 minutes. Put the cooled cakes in a blender and grind to a powder.  Transfer the contents into a bowl and keep it aside.

 

Take a pan; add ghee and fry the cashews till golden brown.  Similarly fry the grated coconut in ghee till golden brown.  Keep it aside.

 

In another thick-bottomed vessel, boil the jaggery in 100 ml water until it dissolves completely.  Now strain this for impurities and re-boil the jaggery water on medium flame, till froth comes fully, along with good aroma.  At this stage, add the powdered dhal mixture and mix well.  Keep stirring for 5-7 minutes till bread-crumb like texture is achieved.  Add the fried cashews, grated coconut & cardamom powder and mix well.

 

Spread in a flat bottomed dish, garnish with fried cashews. Dish is ready to be served.

 

Variants:

 

1. Instead of channa dhal, a combination of Channa dhal 200 gms + Moong dhall 100                 grams + Tur dhal 100 grams can be used.

 

2. Replace jaggery with sugar.  To prepare sugar syrup, boil 500 grams of sugar in 100 ml of water and bring to 2-string consistency (when you take the syrup between thumb and index finger and release it, you can see two strings).  For additional flavor, along with cardamom, a pinch of edible camphor can be added.

 

  1. S:  This is an important traditional Tirunelveli (Tamil Nadu) Iyengar dish, served during Deepavali day.

Sweetest Fairy

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SWEETEST FAIRY

Looking for unusual and personalised Diwali  Cupcakes? Need eggless cupcakes, desserts et al? Low calorie, Low fat, and Sugarfree? 3D Mickey Cookies ? 3D Batman and Spiderman ? Voila!  The “Sweet fairy” conjures them all. Tops the diwali specials with   chocolate diyas, festoons them with rangoli and more.

I don’t know about you, but I believe in Santa Claus and elves and fairies. And for our “Whats hot tasting session” when I met “ Sweet  fairy”  I  was delighted. “I was always obsessed by fairies since my childhood”Apeksha Agarwal explained and so when this daughter of the Kitchen Queen title winner of Jaipur took to baking “Sweet fairy” was the most natural name for her home kitchen company.This young lady  learnt her first recipes from her mom and heres the good news, she bakes only eggless desserts.

“Since my closeones are vegetarians and prefer eggless,  food, I ve specialised in EGGLESS baking” Apeksha clarified. And sure enough all her creations are soft and sweet and yummy… be it cupcakes, teacakes, custom made cakes, cookies, customized cookies, desserts (Apple Pie, Tiramisu, cheesecakes, Trifle puddings and  eclairs), homemade breads, chocolates .

Particular about the finest  ingredient and  freshness she keeps introducing new desserts in their menu, Red Velvet Cupcake, “I have also started making the Green, Yellow and the Orange Velvet Cupcakes. The major change here is flavour of icing, these are frosted with Cardamom flavour cream” she explains. I have yet to try these, but enjoyed the ones I did.

“There is a common misconception in baking that eggless bakes are not as soft as those made with eggs. This is not true at all and the proof of the pudding is in the eating.” Literally and otherwise.

  1. “Sweet fairy” kiddy specials include designer cupcakes with any cartoon characters, 3D mickey cookies, cake pops, designer cookies (doremon, mickey, winni the pooh), designer cakes (for example doll cake for girls, car cakes, cricket cakes for boys).

Apeksha Agarwal, Sweet Fairy
Call – 9677267380
email – sweetfairy@outlook.com
Velachery
www.Facebook.com/SweetFairy01
One can call, email or contact her through their Facebook page and place orders and pick their desserts.


 

SWEET FAIRY CHOCOLATE CAKE

1/2 can (400 gms for a full can) condensed milk
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
125 gms all-purpose flour
1 tbsp Cocoa
1 tbsp Chocolate powder
60 ml, melted butter
1 tsp Vanilla essence

- Sieve flour, cocoa, chocolate powder, baking powder and baking soda.
– Mix the condensed milk, flour, 75 ml water, vanilla essence and melted butter thoroughly
– Grease and dust a 7″ diameter pan
– Pour the cake mixture in the prepared pan.
– Bake in a hot oven at 190 C for approx 20 min (check by inserting a toothpick, when inserted it should come out clean)
Take it out on a wire rack and cool it away from the fan

Gulnaz Ali’s Recipe – Banana Walnut Cake

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SAILING INTO HEALTH

Gulnaz and SamariaWhat on earth is this photo of a sailing regatta  doing in my Food column? The answer is simple, the young sailing champion Samaria is the inspiration and the reason behind her mother Gulnaz, baking the most unique and  healthy cakes. Having tasted Gulnaz’s baking in Chennai at our “Whats hot tasting session” I realized that I had not taken the recipe for her healthy cake. So when I called Gulnaz from Mumbai, they were in the midst of a sailing regatta in Hyderabad which the talented young Samaria was taking part in. I also requested for an on location photo. Voila! Thanks to high speed internet, here it is.

FROM BANKING TO BAKING

The multi-talented Gulnaz Ali having worked for more than ten years in a successful bankers job quit to take care of her daughter and turned to her other passion, baking. “I did this to keep my daughter’s sweet tooth satisfied”. And then ofcourse, ensured that she not only used the finest and freshest of ingredients but also the healthiest. Gulnaz’s healthy cakes are in great demand, as are her regular cakes.  She has studied baking and taken special fondant classes too. Ask for her scrumptious banana walnut cake. Amongst her regular cakes, it’s the   orange and a Almond cake, hazelnut chocolate cake and strawberry pies…which are her signatures. The recipe for Gulnaz’s part wholewheat cake follows, as do her tips for healthy baking.

GULNAZ ALI, 2/157 Karikata Kuppam, Muthukadu, Near Mayajaal, Chennai. Ph 9840943500/ gulnaz13@gmail.com

 


 

Gulnaz’s tips for healthy baking

*Use homemade cream cheese/ mascarpone cheese instead of store bought. This way you can keep a check on the amount of sugar in the product.

* Replace sugar with jaggery.

* Replace maida with wholewheat flour. Start with replacing 1/4 quantity in the recipe and slowly increase the amount of wholewheat flour used.


 

GULNAZ’S RECIPE

healthy cakePart wholewheat banana walnut cake.

Maida – 1 cup
Whole wheat flour – 1 cup
Baking soda – 1/2 tsp
Salt – 1/4 tsp
Banana – 2, large
Unsalted butter – 1/2 cup
Jaggery – 1/2 cup
Granulated sugar – 4 tbsp
Buttermilk – 1/2 cup
Vegetable oil – 4 tbsp
Egg – 2
Vanilla extract – 1 tsp
Chocolate chips and walnuts/ almonds – 1/2 cup



Preheat oven to 180C. Grease one 8 inch pan. 

Sift together the flour, baking soda and salt. In a separate large bowl, whisk together the banana, unsalted butter, jaggery, sugar, buttermilk, oil, eggs and vanilla extract until smooth. Pour the wet ingredients into the flour mixture and fold together with a rubber spatula until completely combined. Coat the chocolate chips with maida and mix into the batter. Pour the mixture into the greased pan and bake at 180C for 30 to 35 mins or till done when checked with a skewer.

 


 

YOUR ATTENTION PLEASE

Do you want to be featured in this column? Like Gulnaz Ali today. Then read on to find out more,The hunt is on, I am looking for baking and cooking talent. Do you bake or cook out of home and so so professionally? Do you know anyone who does so? Please do get in touch with me and we will invite you, along with some others for a “Whats hot tasting session”. After tasting your creations and chatting with you and photographing you, I will then write about you. Please do  email rashmiudaysingsingh2015@gmail.com with the subject CHENNAI FOODLINE. You can also tweet and instagram t @rashmiudaysingh.


FOODLINE

I write this from Gulmurg and I am delighted to hear from you on email, instagram and twitter. Thanks for keeping me plugged to the foodie network of Chennai. Love your foodie news and views…on foodstores, food services, dessert makers, caterers and more. Please do keep calling (9884065010 ) emailing (Rashmiudaysingh2015@gmail.com) tweeting, instagraming, FB (@rashmiudaysingh). Waitingly yours.

THE DIVINE TASTE OF IFTAR

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It is a dream come true and it happens just before the start of the holy month of Ramadan. I am surrounded by the magic of the spectacular sunset of the Arabian desert (the time when the Ramadan fast is broken) and just then I am regaled with the divine taste of Iftar. Each and every traditional recipe is made with authentic ingredients. As the amazing flavors gallop across our taste buds we are reminded that the lush green polo fields stretching around us are where the shining flanks of pedigreed horses   speed past in a spurt of color and sound. I find it difficult to believe that I am in Dubai, the gleaming, glittering  city of high rises and malls. Here in Desert Palm sprawling over 150 acres, there is silence as Mother nature’s bounty overflows. The sun sets, gilding the handsome palm trees which embroider the desert sky. From the most amazing gourmet cooking classes to horse-riding classes, shishas, global cuisines, Desert Palm has it all. Right now, its pre-Iftar time and I taste and nibble on the most traditional main course of succulent, seven spiced  lamb Kahrouf Mahshi infused with cinnamon cardamom. I mop it up with the traditional four Khubs  with fragrant rice and the Superlative Hammour Harra fish too. We start with the traditional Mezze of creamy    Hummus, Moutabel, Tabouleh  and Fattoush. The crisp skinned  Lamb Kebbeh and  Spinach Fatayar  delights, followed by the hearty and nourishing Yellow Lentil soup.

L1150900

THE  SWEET BOND OF IFTAR

Please take a look at the accompanying  photograph and you’ll see how the Iftar dinner brings together all nationalities. Ofcourse, the family Sapti (baby Sapti included) are getting set for Ramadan, as is Ahzar. From South of England there is the  dynamic General manager James Reeves, from Italy, the gifted  Executive Chef David Prantera , India is represented by the talented Chef Anoop  and the lovely Karishma Chopra. And wow!

what an amazing feast  of  Ramadan sweets there is: love the Mafourkeh of toasted bread drizzled with milkfat kashta. Equally delightful is the baked filo pastry with pista and ghee, its called Znoud, which means “lady’s forearm”. Chef Ali Hasan guides me thru this yummy buffet and the baked Omali made of velvety milk and airy puff pastry infused with rose water and blossom water is addictive.  Cant get enough of the Kataif pancakes plump with creamy kashta and crunchy with nuts. After that sweet finale, I sit by the rolling Polo fields under the shimmering night sky and go hubble bubble on the tobacco-free peach flavored sheesha.

 


 

 

Here it is. Just in time for Iftar, Chef Panteras very special recipe…

MANSAF RECIPE

1 KG                       lamb leg with bone / or boneless

200 gms                  plain yogurt

200 gms                  red onion                         half sliced , half chopped

1                      eggs                                 egg white , beaten with a fork untill frothy

25 gms                    corn flour

50 gms                    clarified butter

50 gms                    pine nuts

50 gms                    slivered almonds

15 gms                    water

salt

freshly ground pepper

10 gms                    turmeric powder

10 gms                    all spice

10 gms                    cinnamon stick

400 gms                  basmati rice

10 gms                    cardomom seeds

10 gms                    bayleaf

50 gms                    ghee

3 gms                      dry

Lemon

3 gms                      cinnamon powder

½  ltr                       lamb stock

 

1.Place the yogurt in a thick heavy based pot , add beaten frothy egg , corn flour , salt to the pan .Blend gently with a wooden laddle .

2 . Place the pot over a medium heat , stir with a a wooden laddle , lower the heat as the yogurt can split .

3.Lower the heat and gently let it simmer .

4.Boil the lamb in a pot with Water ,  bayleaf , cinnamon stick , cardamom , turmeric powder, salt to season .

5.Skim the surface for froth  the while the lamb is boiling

6.Heat ghee in a frying pan and add pinenuts  , almonds .fry untill golden brown , remove and keep aside .

7.Add sliced red onion to the same pan with ghee and fry gently untill transparent . add turmeric powder , all spice powder , cinnamon stick and mix and saute well .

8.Add the boiled lamb with this spice mixture with the stock .

9. When the lamb is done , remove and shredd the meat with a fork from the bone .

10. Reduce the sauce more and add yogurt sauce , blend well with wooden laddle , let the mixture boil , add the the shredded lamb and reduce the sauce more .

9.After the lamb has been cooked , keep reducing until the sauce thickens .

10.Heat the clarified butter in a pot and saute cinnamon stick , bayleaf , dry lemon ,chopped onion, minced lamb, add soaked basmati rice and add lambstock and let the rice cook ,add cinnamon powder when the rice is boiling .

11.Once the rice is cooked , serve on a large round serving platter , then garnish with fried nuts .

12.Top the platter with the shredded lamb and mansaf sauce , fried nuts .

I’M HOOKED

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Excuse me for speeding! I’m on a mission. I’m on the look out for one single dish which captures the essence of each of my favorite cities. Surely! It cant be Bhelpuri for Mumbai? Though it is a lot like the city itself, it’s tangy, crisp, sour, sweet, squishy…but it doesn’t distil the high-end, highrise glossy life or Bombay- to- Mumbai’s chequered history. And here in Kolkata my heartbeat is quickening with joy. Here, many centuries coexist seamlessly. Here, in this undecipherable amalgam of modernity and oldness, human warmth and apathy, rickshaws and limousines throbs the soul of the city which I love. Sure it is proudly Bengali, it is multi-cultural but it still hark backs to the Colonial Raj. And here amidst all this cacophony and glamour I hit the jackpot. I find that one dish which distils the Bengali heartbeat and the cosmopolitan nature.

TIMELESS LEGEND

L1120295Sure! Enough this dish has stood the test of time. Its recipe has been passed down generations of masterchefs. And  time stands still in the Historic  handsome Oberoi Grand with it’s stucco ornamentation, colonnaded verandahs and balconies. The glory and style of the Raj coexists seamlessly with modernization. Here I trip out on Chef Saurav Banerjee’s “smoked Hilsa” a masterful combination of the Ilish (Hilsa) fish which every Bengali loves done to a very Anglo-Indian style. Having studied in the prestigious catering college of West Bengal, opened many a restaurant around the country, Chef Banerjee has also traveled the world working in Singapore and London.. He brilliantly executes this dish.

This recipe probably existed way back in the early nineteenth century when the site of the hotel was the private residence of a Colonel Grand, which went on to be converted into a boarding house by Mrs. Annie Monk, bought over by  Arathoon Stephen an Armenian from Isfahan who redeveloped the site into an extravagant neoclassical style which looks like the hotel today.  The hotel soon became a popular spot amongst the English population of Calcutta. It was known, in particular, for its annual New Year party  with iced champagne and expensive gifts and for sure this smoked Hilsa dish. Rai Bahadur Mohan Singh Oberoi took over and bought this property in 1939 and it stands handsomely and serenely in the cacophony of Chowringhee. A meal at the multi-cuisine all day dining restaurant,a authentic Thai restaurant, a dip in the limpid blue pool in the heart of the hotel are some of the must-dos. The dapper dynamic George Kuruvilla ensures that history and modernity do a memorable tango and this dish of Smoked Hilsa is the epitome of both.

THE GRAND SMOKED HILSA

The intensely flavored Ilish or Hilsa has been  the Bengali favorite (and mine) forever. Chef Banerji very thoughtfully provides substitutes for it (though we both agree that no fish can really match it in texture or flavor). Ditto for the Bengali mustard paste…kasundi. However you can always use any other ready mustard paste. Try it and be transported to the most historic and legendary of  Kolkata’s Grand landmark. One bite of it’s smoky-tender-firmness and the flavor of Kolkata with it’s centuries of colorful history will seduce you. A truly unique legendary dish from a Grand legend.

recipe-header

Ingredients
Smoked hilsa (if hilsa not available you may substitute with rawas or sole) fillet 250gm, Baby potato 4 to 6/ Baby carrot3 to 4/ Broccoli 2 small florets/ Baby corn2/ Chopped parsley A small bunch,
Salt 2gm/ Cracked pepper1gm/ Kasundi mustard sauce 2tbsp (can be substituted by any ready mustard paste).

For the sauce
Fish stock 2cups/ Kasundi 1tbsp/ Butter 2 tbsps, Cream Half a cup,

Method:
·Take out the hilsa fillet and put it in a pre-heated 180 degrees medium oven till its nicely hot.
·Par boil all the vegetables  and season with salt and pepper.
·Sprinkle chopped parsley on the vegetables and arrange it in a plate.
·Place the fillet carefully on the plate and pour the kasundi mustard sauce on it.
·Serve hot.
·For the sauce reduce the stock to 50%. Add the kasundi mustard.
·Take it off the fire and whisk in the cream and the butter.
METHOD FOR SMOKING

Ingredients
Hilsa fillet de skinned 350gm, 2) Anchovy 5 gm, (use tinned anchovy 1 small piece,) 3)Kasundi mustard 2tsp, 4)Refined oil 2tsp,
5) Lemon juice 1tsp, 6) Salt to taste.

Method:
· Remove the scales from the fish and cut out the fillets. In a large container take cloves on a burning ember of coal and pour ghee on it.Trap that smoke . Chef uses ·mango wood dust for smoking but he has given the coal alternative for home cooking. .
Marinate the fillet with  (anchovy, kasundi, oil, lemon juice and salt) the ingredients no. 2 – 6 and leave it for one hour.
·Cook the fillet in a pre heated oven.
·De bone the fillet by taking out strips vertically from the fillet.
·Remove the bones feeling them with the knife.
·Join back the strips and cling wrap the fillet carefully, ( should you want to, you can  store this smoked hilsa for 4 to 6 days too)

REJUVEN-ATE, CELEBR-ATE

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I raise a toast with the  delicious“Iron man” juice and ask a few questions: Can delicious also be nutritious? Tasty food be   healthy? Contradictory? Not possible? But worth finding out, don’t you agree? After all, food delivers the much-needed energy and the vitality to work and to enjoy life in all it’s manifold aspects. And so it’s been my life-long quest to find food that combines taste with health. And especially in restaurants. Having eaten my way through all my travels around the world and through all my 33 books, I have to admit that very, very few restaurants serve up food that combines these two aspects. Most coax flavors and enhance textures with dollops of fat, frying to a crisp, layers of cream and so on. India’s  restaurantscape continues to grow and expand with multiple cuisines and options. And each year, as I research The Times Food Guides I eat non-stop in restaurants here.

  CAFE WELI-DELI

Rejuven-ateYou can imagine my delight when in the heart of bustling South Mumbai, I find  a cafe, an oasis of calm which creates, innovates and serves up the most amazing spa menu. And this is a glassed off space ( outdoor verandah et al), surrounded by trees. This jewel of a  open-through-the-day café is part of the Taj’s Wellington Mews, their swanky serviced apartment property. Sure! You can imbibe the tranquility and coffee and snacks but even more exciting is the light and delightful menu of the Jiva spa complemented by a variety of fresh fruit and vegetable juices. Ofcourse, the comprehensive short menu with it’s sandwiches and pastas also offers a flavorsome Goan prawn curry and the ever popular Chicken kathi roll.  But it’s the healthful yet yummy Steamed Sea Bass, the  Mediterranean-spiced Chicken Breast  and the healthy Wholewheat Ravioli with Spinach and Mushroom and Stir-fried Spring Vegetables served with Tofu that Chef Shrutika Koli excels in. Here I not only trip out on their crisp salads, but also their  addictive roasted pumpkin soup spiked with cumin and the homestyle drumsticks.

From chef Shrutika Koli and the dynamic, health-buff Parveen Chander Kumar, who helms the serene spa and the property, I get a rejuvenating taste of health.  “The soup is full of antioxidants”  explains Parveen  and I chip in “and what a unique lingering whisper of cumin it has”.

P.S. The Iron Man is a refreshing apple, guava and pear juice. Weli Deli’s  Pineapple and Ginger with Mint and Celery is another favorite of mine too.

 

 


 

HEALTHY COOKING TIPS

Chef Shrutika shares some of her tips and recipes with us.

·       Always use only seasonal and fresh vegetables and  herbs,  instead of canned or dried ones.

·       While making  juices of fruits and  vegetables try and squeeze last minute without adding any sweeteners .

·       ·         ·        Try to best capture flavors retain the nutrients in food without adding excessive salt and fats

·       Cooking with minimal heat and a la minute tossing of food help to maintain  colour and texture of food .

·       Avoid excess use of all the white food stuffs eg. Sugar , salt , rice , milk, refine flour …..

 

CUMIN SCENTED ROASTED PUMPKIN BISQUE

Ingredients:

Amount   Measure  Ingredient                       Preparation Method

500          grams              pumpkin red

15            grams              cumin seeds                    roasted and powdered

15            milliliters        extra virgin olive oil

10            grams              sea salt                    to taste

10            grams              pepper corn                     crushed

20            grams              shallots                    chopped

20            grams              garlic                               chopped

20            grams              leeks                                chopped

 

Preparation:

Peel & cut pumpkin in to wedges. Marinate pumpkin with olive oil, salt, peper  & garlic.

Roast marinated pumpkin in the oven until well-done. Puree the roasted pumpkin to a fine paste.

Sauté garlic, shallots, leeks, cumin seeds & add pumpkin puree. Add vegetable stock, and seasoning.

Simmer the soup till smooth and creamy. Strain and return to fire.

Check for seasoning, color and consistency. Serve hot garnished with roasted cumin powder.

THE PERFECT PUMPKIN

  • Very low calorie (100 gms of pumpkin has 26 calories)No saturated fats or cholesterol.
  • Pumpkin has many anti-oxidant vitamins such as vitamin-A, vitamin-C and vitamin-E.
  •  but rich in fiber, anti-oxidants, minerals, vitamins.
  •  Recommended by dieticians in cholesterol controlling and weight reduction programs.
  • High quantity of Vitamin A, a powerful natural anti-oxidant.
  • Plenty of  B-complex group of vitamins.
  • A rich source of minerals like copper, calcium, potassium and phosphorus.

ART ON THE PALATE

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I am breathing art, seeing art, hearing art and ofcourse tasting art. In Barcelona, this city of culture, knowledge,creativity and innovation Spanish genius has been nurtured  over centuries…be it Gaudi or Dali or Picasso. Culinary heros like Ferran Adria have blazed global trails and now many more are making an international impact. Infact the first ever culinary book was written in Barcelona in the 12th century.  Barcelona with it’s  architectural masterpiece buildings with floral motifs, stained glass windows, wrought iron balconies and neo gothic details really is like an open air museum.

In the heart of it all, is the oldest Majestic which opened it’s doors in 1918. It  is  timeless, elegant and luxurious and always has been even when it’s nightly rate was just oven ten cents. Today the third generation of the founding Soldevila-Casals family continues to ensure that this “art hotel” not only houses a collection of priceless art but many great artists like Picasso and Miro have lived here too.

VIVA CATALONIAVIVA CATALONIA

Did you know that Barcelona is the capital of  Catalonia, a small nation pursuing independence within a united Europe?  And though it has assimilated cosmopolitan cultures, over a 1000 years, it continues to hold it’’s own roots, culture, language and cuisine in high regard.

I am fascinated by this complex yet amazingly simple cuisine and the high state of gastronomy in Catalonia. Daylight bathes the timeless elegance of the Majestic located in the throbbing heart of Barcelona. It is here that Michelin starred chef Nando jubani weaves his magic.  Along with the masterpieces which regale the diners, it is here too that I request to taste the most Catalan of all dishes…the simple (and now in season)  “Calcotada”.Please take a look at the photograph and you’ll see what I mean. There is an art to eating this specialty which takes a little practice: tip the head back and open your mouth wide, then hold the long white stalk high above and then bring it between your teeth and enjoy it…it’s the ancient ritual of Calcotada, the great green onion feast, which attracts thousands of devotees ever year and has acquired an essential place in the economy of the entire region. It is said that Xat de Benaiges was the first to grill the green onion over a flaming fire over a hundred years ago.  The green onions (harvested November till January) are grilled in advance . I request Chef David Romero to make this ancient specialty and voila! What a fantastic job  he does.  As done for more than a century, the dynamic Santiago Martin, the knowledgable Montse Subirana and I  peel away the smoke-blackened skin and dip the  green onions  in the”salbitaxada” sauce, a piquant sauce of tomatoes, almonds, peppers, vinegar and oil and the simplicity and freshness of the flavors not only seduces but also energises me.

RECIPE: SALBITXADA

Sauce for the calcots …green onions

2 tbsp blanched almonds, 2 bitso peppers, (substitute with red chilli peppers)6 cloves of garlic,  2 ripe tomatoes, skinned and iced, 1 tbsp chopped parsley, 1 tbsp red wine vinegar, half cup olive oil, salt and pepper. Method…Heat a dry skilled and toast almonds, crush them coarsely in a morter pestle. Chop garlic and peppers (after deseeding) coarsely, mix with almonds. Add tomatoes, parsley, vinegar and then pour in olive oil gradually. Whisk into a thick paste. Tip: you can use a mixi if you are short of time.

 

It is only in Catalonia that even the war which they lost (in 1714) is celebrated by Michelin starred chef Jordi val in his restaurant “300 el born” where typical Catalan dishes are cooked to their hearty recipes interpreted by jordi in his own brilliant way.

THE BEST OF THE BEST

I landed  in Catalonia only day before and have already been regaled by the most amazing restaurants…At the hot, happening, new bar Brutal Can Cisa in the old city, not only are amazing Catalan Tapas served but also only “natural wines”.

I taste it all…from the three Michelin starred Carme Rustadilla’s  masterpieces in texture and flavor to the homestyle Catalan flavors of the Garrega family kitchen. The 62 year young Carme weaves magic in her seafront restaurant. Each dish is a work of art and artistry and our three hour long meal is a memorable parade of 23 courses. At “Tickets” the Adria brothers, vibrant and fun tapas bar with a twist (and what a twist) wizardry and skill  results in quivering spheres which look like olives and implode with olive flavor, tempura pistachio, artichoke ravioli, the worlds first gourmet beer (with hints of fennel and liqourice) which pairs brilliantly with he food…all created by the famous El Bulli brothers Adria. At their Peruvian-Japanese fusion “Pakta” I am blown away by the ceviches and sushi withPeruvian overtones and Bodega 1900 is a nostalgic return to the good old days. Tomorrow early morning I leave for Girona to eat in the “Worlds best restaura nt” crowned by the London based “Worlds 50 best restaurant academy”..it is called “El Celler can de Roca” and it is a part of Catalonia. Viva Catalonia!

SAVORING SPAIN

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Move over France. Spain is here.  Spanish genius spills over with vibrant intensity, be it art, architecture and especially food. Picasso, Dali, Gaudi and even the Gods of gastronomy (Ferran Adria, Roca brothers, Juan Marie and Elena Arzak) reign supreme.

I’m here in Spain, at most cutting edge frontier of gastronomy. Here global superstars and Spanish wizards have flown in for the most prestigious Madridfusion, the annual, three day foodcongress in the stylish, art and food mecca, Madrid. Its really impossible to distil the flavor of Spain in this short space, so I offer to you a smattering of tastes…

THE FUTURE IS HERE

Unveiling the future, at this three Madridfusion are many a genius. Andoni Luis along with British Scientists announces and demonstrates how we will be able to transmit smell through the internet.  Joan Roca explains how he injects leaves to make cocktails…and the list goes on. The future trends of gastronomy, the best of the best,

are revealed by global superstars who have  flown in from all parts of the world. I hear their views, learn their cooking secrets and chat with them…be it Jose Andres (Bazaar, Minibar) of Los Angeles, the legendary Michel Bras and Pascal Barbot from France, Mehmet Gurs from Istanbul and many more. The suave Joan Roca of the Worlds best restaurant (El Celler can Roca, Girona…where I had a lifechanging dinner a few days ago) is here.Its the Capel family (Esmeralda, Anna and Carlos) who  founded and spearheaded this gastronomique Madridfusion.

 

L1140307 THE FATHER OF SPANISH CUISINE

Please take a look at the photograph I shot  in the midst of this hectic,  pathbreaking Madridfusion. I was lucky enough to meet the father of Modern Basque cuisine, Juan marie  and his daughter Elena (crowned “the worlds best woman chef” ). A couple of days before I had journeyed to the charming coastal town of San Sebastian to their restaurant “Arzak”.

It sure is a memorable experience to dine in Arzak, home  of the Arzak family since 1897 is  constructed by Juan Mari’s  grandparents. His brilliant daughter Elena (crowned as the “Worlds best woman chef”) is the fourth generation of culinary geniuses.

As the leisurely 12 course, wine-paired  meal unfolds it becomes quite evident why Arzak was the first Spanish restaurant to earn three Michelin stars in 1989. Science and technique, art and drama merge to coax flavors and textures out of the Superb Basque produce. Space constrains me to describe only three dishes. Though each and every one was magnificent.

It all starts off with A crushed can of tonic…mango zuchini in a tonic water sauce…clever yet simple flavors.

A dramatic large green dome of seaweed and crispy rice reveals.tenderfirm monkfish in a traditional green sauce of parsley and gsrlic. I nibble on the crspy seawed and rice dome.yum. It’s the finale of the “Hardware shop”  (ferreteria) that I get addicted to….Screws of intense chocolate bolts of aubergine and chocolate. Keys of silver and chocolate unlocking sheer delight. Chocoholics delight.

INDIA IS SHINING

Here in Madridfusion, India is shining. The  Roca brothers of The worlds best restaurant, created a dish inspired by India: the legendary Michel Bras goes on stage to announce that he gets his inspiration from India. Michelin-starred Sergi Arola has set up his signature restaurant in Mumbai. Delhi is next on his agenda. Our very own dynamic chef Himanshu Taneja from the JW Marriott  is making his presence felt.

SPAIN IN MY PLATE?

RECIPE

After eating my way through Spain for ten days, I find that it is impossible to distil Spain in one recipe. However this simple but flavorful garlic and olive oil recipe (known in Spain as) ajaceite or alioli is basic  to Spanish cuisine and surely worth trying at home.

This creamy garlic mixture is especially popular with the Catalans, and the name comes

from the Catalan words all(garlic) and oli (oil).  alioli (pronounced all-

ee-ohlee) consists only of these two ingredients, plus a pinch of salt, and nothing else.

 

ALIOLI

Original version:

3 large cloves of garlic coarsely chopped

¼ – ½ tsp salt

½ -1 cup/125-250 ml olive oil

Lemon juice to taste

 

Pound the garlic and salt to an even consistency, using a mortar and pestle. Then add the olive

oil drop by drop at first, increasing to a thin stream and stirring constantly until a thick

paste is formed. Add lemon juice to taste.

 

Modern imitation:

3 large cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped

½ tsp salt

l-12 egg yolks

1 cup/250 ml olive oil

Lemon juice n taste

 

Cut up the garlic and pound it with salt to an even paste, using a mortar and pestle. Stir in the

egg yolk. Then add the olive oil drop by drop at first, increasing to a thin stream and working it

in by stirring constantly. Flavor with lemon juice to taste and serve cold. A balloon or hand

whisk may be used to stir in the oil if preferred.

P.S.  The test of the cook’s skill is to be able to turn the mortar upside down with the finished alioli  inside, without any of it falling out. Sparkle your food, serve Alioli  with fish,meat, vegetables, rice…take your pick

Want Spanish recipes? Please email  (rashmiudaysingh2014@gmail.com, twitter, instagram @rashmiudaysingh.

A Taste of the Divine

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A TASTE OF THE DIVINE

Surprise of surprises. Here, in this spiritual retreat of a heaven- on- earth, I am being exposed not only to life-changing philosophies but also blowingly new perspectives on food.

Here I am in Isha Ashram. It sprawls below the majestic Velliangiri mountains, Coimbatore. The crisp, cool air of the 200 acre ashram  is  fragrant with flowering trees and plants. Champa and jasmine weave their heady magic. God paints his canvas with a riot of vivid colored flowers and fruits.

And in this paradise too, the fruit trees are heavy with smooth-cheeked papayas, fresh green lemons, glossy mangoes, plump custard apples and more. Each fruit bursting with goodness and flavor and color. Aptly enough, it is here that  my perspectives on food get overhauled.

FOOD AND SELFLESS LOVE

Sure! Its through three decades of food writing, that I have learnt that there are some universal truths…gifted  chefs skilled and experienced in the art and science of cooking produce great food. Tried and tested recipes are paramount. But I had no idea that selfless love can result in such tasty fare. Selfless love alone which drives total novices and amateurs. Here in this ashram Annadhanam ( An offering of food) is served to almost 2000 persons daily. It is totally free and is for  the ashrams residents, volunteers & guests.  Sattvic, positive pranic and 100% vegetarian food (a variety of salads, cereals, vegetables, fruits and porridge) is cooked here. Here’s the riveting part,
all the food here is cooked by volunteers.
Even more interestingly, these residents and volunteers in the center are from US, UK, Europe, Lebanon, of course Indian, Australia, Singapore, Malaysia and many more countries. I  trip out on the delicious flavors and textures of many a cuisine here and the salads surprise with their cheeky ingenuity of combinations and then they seduce. I eat them in the cool winter-sunshine, and request the two volunteers  Sriram Kumar and Bharathi.V. (who have made the salads) to pose with them.Please see the photograph. They’re both  full time volunteers at Isha Yoga Center and both have lovingly cubed and chopped and mixed and matched fruits and vegetables, nuts,  coconut and more and produced an astonishing symphony of tastes and textures. They generously share their salad recipes with us…

TANGY, CRUNCHY SALAD

Cucumber – Pineapple Salad:
– 1 cup cubed cucumber
– 1/2 cup cubed pineapple
– 1/4 cup pomogranate
– Little finely chopped Corriander
– Salt and pepper to taste

SWEET BLISS SALAD

Carrot Chikki Salad:
– 1cup grated carrot
– 3/4 cup apple ( Julian cut)
– 2 table spoon Grated coconut ( add more if needed)
– Pomogranate for colour
– 2 table spoon of broken groundnut chikki
– 1 tablespoon honey
– cut pieces of cashew nut, Raisins
– 1 teaspoon roasted white sesame seeds

RED RICE SALAD

  
– 1/2 cup cut Orange pieces
– 1/2 cup cut Apple
– 1 cup torn Spinach
– 1/2 cup semi boiled red rice
– 1 cup cut cucumber
Dressing: make a paste of the  below mentioned ingridients in a blender
– 1/4 cup orange juice
– 1/2 cup peeled apple
– 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
– 1 teaspoon honey
– Salt and Pepper to taste.

MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF GORDON RAMSAY IN THIS ASHRAM

When the celebrated , revered and feared London based chef Gordon Ramsay’s team approached me to be his South India guide for his Channel 4 TV show “Great Escapes” I insisted he go to Isha ashram, Coimbatore and pick up not just spiritual principles but also great vegetarian cooking tips and recipes. Having done that, the committed carnivore that he is , Gordon came back to Mumbai totally impressed and converted.

Michelin-starred Chef Gordon Ramsay
Michelin-starred Chef Gordon Ramsay

He couldn’t believe how tasty the vegetarian fare was in the ashram and ofcourse he was bowled over by the erudite and enlightened, (fluent in English) Sadhguru Jaggi Vasudev.Here its not about vitamins, minerals or proteins. Here, food is  categorized as positive pranic food ( increases vitality in the body), negative pranic food,(drains energy) and zero pranic food. While Negative pranic food comprises of Garlic,Onion,Asafoetida,Brinjal,Chili and

Coffee / tea.everything else is positive or zero pranic.

Interestingly, lime and all citrus fruits, as well as coconut are highly prized positive pranic foods.

Needless to add all the salad recipes given above are positively pranic. What is it that the hardened carnivore, globally acknowledged  Michelin-starred chef Gordon Ramsay got bowled over by? It’s the high-voltage combination of positive pranic energy and spectacular taste that is unbeatable. And addictive!