European and Continental
One more brand new restobar (this time in Andheri), four fabulous foodie blind dates (who I met over instagam) add upto a fun-afternoon as we review Brickhouse cafe. The first to arrive is the lovely @rinichatterjee new girl in the city, who works for a luxury lifestyle management company.
@ila_ismail a physiotherapist also blogs about travel, fashion&lifestyle,
@raisinghanirashmi a celebrity manager is a passionate homechef and
@truptimarolia has recently quit a job to pursue her dream of opening a cupcake bakery from home. Our review follows.
We all give a thumbsup to the exposed brickwalls rustic doors, wooden tables, industrial, unfinished work-in-progress look. Alfresco area too.
While the bar dabbles in Molecular cocktails (candyfloss, Dutch Kettle) the food is a decent Mediteranean mix and match fare of yum hummus, a surprisingly light risotto with spinach. Even the Fusili ala diavolo is al dente with perfectly cooked prawns.
Philly steak sandwich is just about okay, the Mushrooms soft moist. While the 4 Brick pizza (pineapple spinach mushrooms) is passable. Belgian chocolate Molten lava cake worth trying.
Undercooked chicken, an Epic burger (supposedly Anguswith Jack daniel Barbecue sauce) is an epic underperformer with a laclustre patty and soggy buns. Shrimp Turds (why would anyone name a dish like that?) with bacon wrapped prawns is avoidable. Ditto for the cheesecake.
Open through the day, Brickhouse café has a young, cheery, casual vibe. It offers comfort pizza pasta sandwich kind of food at comforting prices ( Rs 1500 av meal for 2).If in the vicinity it is the perfect place to lounge about and linger than go for a serious meal.
P.S. Our blind-date adventure continued as we popped into the brand new Boston Cupcakery next door. Tasted all the cupcakes, the unique cupcake shakes, the Ganache, chocolate symphony and Red velvet shake come out tops.
Lokhandwala Market, Opposite the HDFC ATM Lokhandwala Complex Andheri (West)
Brickhouse All Day Cafe & Bar Andheri Daily, from noon to 1.30am
RATING FOOD 3 SERVICE 3.5 DÉCOR 3.5
My salaam to the Sahib and (never forget) the Memsahib. Interestingly, now that current restaurant trends are all about sleek minimalism, molecular gastronomy and global fusion, Palladium Hotel’s four month old Sahib Room is a thrilling blast from the past, a reminder of how much pleasure can be had just from being tucked into elegance and graciousness. And fittingly my dinner companion is the epitome of style and substance. The ever-gorgeous Dr Jamuna Pai, pioneering cosmetologist is renowned not just for the many firsts to her credit but also for her Bridal TV shows and the innumerable Miss Universe, and Miss India’s she has been skincare expert to. With cutting edge skincare clinics in Mumbai ,Delhi and Pune she has almost become a household name now in India for skincare, but she still makes time to cook Indian food brilliantly. Her fabulous recipes have been part of my Penguin Celebrity cookbook too,.Both Doc and the soft spoken Suchi Kalia give a thumbs up to the food here.
It’s spacious, it’s plush, it offers privacy. We sit under shimmering Ossler chandeliers and Venetian crystals, (plenty of space between tables) and finely curated prints (that date back to the 17th century) around us. We love the community bar table, the quirky magnifying reading glass, quill pen and gramophone in the adjoining Kipling bar (with many an innovative cocktail) and settle down to a leisurely and fun dinner.
Multilayered, rich, spice perfumed flavours from Awadh, Hyderabad, Kashmir and more. Hailing from the Awadh region, 32 year old chef Angad Rai not only brings his training in the Lucknavi kitchens but also khada and khushboo masalas pipri, kachri, patherkephool, nag kesar, rose petals. He handpounds them and teases big effects from the superb softest Galouti and equally good vegetarian waterchestnut and avocado Khaas Kebabs. We trip out on the homestyle Awadhi Purvanchal saag (spiked with bathua And ambada).Exquisite nalli nihari (cooked in Unani masala) must be mopped up with the light saffron flavoured taftan bread. Succulent Lahori chaampain with whispers of saunf. Kashmiri hand pounded Sasranga mutton mellowed with curd, saffron and mogra is a must try. Khaas dal makhni rich with safed makhan too. End with the moist, subtle and flavoursome kache gosht ki Dum Biryani. Plenty for vegetarians (50 percent of the menu)
Try the Kalonjiwale Baigan, tangy Amchuri Bhindi and Ande ki biryani.
Small portions. We could do with more generosity. The seafood (be it the gongura prawns or the jaituni pomfret) though not below par lacks the masterfulness of the rest of the dishes. The light Broccoli Dak Bangla.with kasundi mustard is dragged down with it’s Philadelphia cream cheese slathering. Rajbhog, angoodi rabdi are ho hum, the outsourced paan icecream is a little better, but what is fabulous (and we ask for seconds) is the Khubani ka meetha (unfortunately, on my second dinner I was told it’s not on the menu anymore).My favourite sparkling water (neither Perrier nor Pelligrino) available in this 5 star hotel.
Kudos to The Sahib Room for not taking it’s name literally and serving up clichéd decor or Anglo-Indian food from the Raj. Instead Awadh, Hyderabad and Kashmi distil themselves graciously on our plates in elegant surroundings. I eat two long meals here (pay an average of Rs 5000 meal for 2).There is consistency in the food (except for a few, the desserts and the portions could be bigger), I am told that the chef uses the principles of Unani medicine in cooking to achieve the perfect balance between being rich yet non-greasy. There is plenty of ceremony associated with fine dining yet there’s a relaxed air, that is in sync with most diners’ temperaments. I raise a toast in delight with their paan martini Mera Salaam hai!
The Sahib Room & Kipling Bar Palladium Hotel, Lower Parel/
Av meal for 2: Rs 5,000 Ph 61628000
Open for lunch and dinner
RATING FOOD 4 SERVICE 4 DECOR 4
TIMES FOOD GUIDE 2015
Booking restaurant tables under fake names, landing up for surprise checks… am busy doing that twice a day. Exciting, exacting and fattening times are here. I am busy eating for The Times Food guide 2015. Would love to incorporate your recommendations, please do share your favourite restaurants and invite you to dine with me (email@example.com) FB @rashmiudaysingh instagram, twitter. Waitingly yours.
Bengali, chinese, North indian
I love Kolkatta and also Calcutta (just got back two days ago). And so the opening of Andheri East’s “Kolkatta Calling” has me and the charming Naina and Dr Bhabatosh Sahu very excited. We not only have a long discussion on Bengali food (he cooks brilliantly) but I am floored by the fact that this genius did not complete school (studied till the ninth standard) but went on to complete his Masters in H.R. Phd in management (from prestigious institutes), is a professor in IIM. Fellow in Wharton and heads up a cutting edge company which is driven by high end chemistry and makes building blocks for DNA/ RNA, I love these happy ending stories, does our restaurant review have on?.
Frayed copies of “The adventures of Tin Tin” (in Bengali, please note) nakshi pakhas (traditional hand fans), Tagore poetry scrawled on walls…make up the décor. Old Bengali songs resound in the in the very rustic small eatery with it’s benches, Pepsi fridge and wall clock.
We bought some of the popular Kolkata-based farsan brand Mukharochak (kept in a shelf for sale)
Bengali, Chinese and North Indian fare here. Stick to the Bengali starters (chops, cutlets and rolls) in the appetiser section. My favourites Bekti paturi and prawn malai curry have just the right balance of texture and flavour. The succulent mutton in the robustly curry Thakur Barir Pathar Mangsho
just about passes muster. MINUS POINTS
Skip the Gobi Manchurian and Chilly Chicken on the menu.Avoid the dry and tasteless Kobiraja, as also the Cholar dal. Sadly there was no Radhaballabi or mochar ghanto. Very sadly too the sweets were dry and tasteless be it the rossogulla or the Payesh.
Rustic ambiance in the small eatery tucked into Andheri East’s crammed streets. Okayish and moderately priced (Rs 1000 meal for two) Bengali fare with disappointing mishti. Maybe it was just an off day for them, so I am making plans to go back with my Bengali gourmet buddy Kalyan Karmakar (@finelychopped) meanwhile do share your experiences with me (firstname.lastname@example.org, twitter and instagram @rashmiudaysingh)
Near Sher-E-Punjab Colony and Tolani College of Commerce
Open noon to 3.30pm, 6pm to 11.30pm
RATING 3 DECOR 3 SERVICE 3.5
I am in eight heaven ! Joyfully bonding and reviewing a restaurant with eight of my fabulous foodie blind dates (I met them over instagram when they hashtagged #dinewithrashmi) It’s a rainy afternoon and we are at Juhu’s new Villa 69 and they have come from Mulund, Andheri Vashi, Walkeshwar, Bandra .
Talented homecook Shabnam mukadam (@cookingfiesta1) brings along her most sublime mithai, Photo blogger, marketing porfessional Ritika Betala (@foodiesofindia)
CA turned social media marketer (@sanjanaj88) are among the first few to come. BMM graduate and food blogger Samina (@theCconfession)
Pro MakeUp Artist.Diane D’costa (@d_diane) Project manager Aaron Pereira @pereiraaaron and
Chartered Accountant turned Lifestyle Blogger Bhumika Thakkar @bhumika_t join us as we have an amazing time.
By day this sprawling, very white Villa (obviously the brainchild of a romantic, with cupids painted on walls) is daylight bathed. It has a charming alfresco courtyard too. By night it takes on a sizzling, dramatically lit avatar and throbs with cutting edge music.”Perfect for a date” is the unanimous comment of my guests.
In the multicuisine menu which zig zags thru continents, it’s the affordable pricing which stands out ( Av price of main course Rs 395). It’s also the flavorsome Thai curries (we try them all) which come up tops. We all love the daintily presented cottage cheese picatta in the tangy tomato sauce. Sweet spicy honey chilli chicken,crispy panko fish are all worth trying.
We ask for recommendations and check out the veg as well as the non veg dishes. Suffice it to say that a lot of it does not pass muster, oily flavourless tofu, lacklustre chicken BalineseAyam pelalah, and soggy Fiamma and Toscana pizzas) and totally avoidable desserts.
Villa 69 is one more rocking offering from the successful serial nightclub owner, Suved Lohia. The life-size statue of a horse (glittering mirrors like those in a disco ball) in the restaurant, the Bolly bashes and other night events here make it clear this is a buzz-bedecked party zone. The food has more misses than hits ( the restaurant is totally empty at lunch,) but it’s Villa 69 s sexily glamorous night avatar which is the hit.
Plot No.30 Near PVR Cinema and Oakwood Premier J. M. Road Juhu
022 6596 9669
Open from noon to midnight
RATING FOOD 2.5 SERVICE 3.5 DÉCOR 4
I’m doing three things which I love: flying in from Paris, then going directly from the airport to a restaurant review. Most importantly : to a brand new fortnight old Chinese restaurant in Andheri. Surprisingly it already has many a diner. I go up and chat with many of them. Having heard about China Pavilion’s “Lettuce wrap” from a friend Sohil Parikh, Neelen Shah and Meghna Vora have driven from Bandra and love it. On another table Sambit Das is celebrating his birthday. Buzzing around them is Erol Leong (ex Golden Dragon, ex China Garden, ex Mayrose)
Located opposite the police station, the red-tile roofed eatery has a simple, predictably pleasant ambiance.Wooden tables, wooden floored, TV screen, Chinese artefacts et al.
There’s Chindian and there’s homestyle Chinese. Its the pricing which is the winner here. Rs 299 (you read that right) for an unlimited lunch here. Student combos (Rs 110 for a limited meal)
The menu offers a choice of twenty sauces ( sweet spicy Devil sauce, Thai Garlic and more) and you can ask for your choice of meat, seafood and veggies to be cooked in any. Garlic and spice do the garba and the bhangra in a lot of the dishes. Be it Prawn pepper chilly or Chicken jade spicy with spinach and garlic. Manchurians and Schezwan sauce drizzled fare here. Bland homestyle fare for you? “Fee noodles” “Egg fantasy” , Bok choy, simply tossed in natural flavors. Must trys? lettuce wraps and crisp yet moist spring rolls.
No pork. No beef served here. Today there is no crab or asparagus available and only one okayish dessert of honey noodles. The suimai and dimsum, though thin skinned are falling apart, overcooked soggy bassa and some of the dishes are lackluster. No alcohol served here.
You can expect moderately priced Chindian and homestyle Chinese fare at this fortnight old Andheri eatery with it’s comfy and gleaming ambiance. Don’t go looking for gourmet Chinese but at Rs 299 for an unlimited lunch you cant go wrong.
Opp Versova Police station, Near Cosmopolitan school. DN Nagar, Andheri (W) ph 26352900
RATING FOOD 3.5 SERVICE 3.5 AMBIANCE 3.5
Meal for two: Rs 1000
OOH! LA! LA! PARIS
Breaking news. Even more magic is happening in Paris: Not just in superglam, rarefied gastronomique restaurants but also on the streets and train stations.I eat in the Legendary three Michelin starred chef Eric Frechon’s fabulous and affordable Lazare (in the Lazare train station) I dine at his gastronomique restaurant at the iconic Le Bristol (across the Presidents palace and also the President’s favorite) too. I not only catch up with Alain Ducasse (have shot my TV show in his Monte Carlo restaurant) but also get a peek into the about-to-open, high-profile super hush -hush Plaza Athenee restaurant. And then comes the surprise I love the choux puffs at Ducasse and Michalak’s street side choux puff counter.
Paris sizzles with high-octane newness and youth… For the first time ever I dine at a restaurant where perfume and food overlap. International perfumer Guerlain’s restaurant by Michelin starred Guy Martin conjures up their signature perfume inspired dishes. I ’m thrilled to dine with the dashing young Michelin starred Chefs, Akrame (of the 7 month old, Michelin starred Akrame) and the charming Executive chef of the Peninsula John Edern . The brand new less than a month old Peninsula dazzles and right next to it, the fourth generation family owned Raphael continues to hold it’s own and weave timeless charm as I meet the lovely owner Veronique Valcke, Coffee with Helene Avril at the Goerge V, shopping at Maison de Truffe ,Hediard, calling on the Indian ambassador, Elodie Berta’s drive through Paris in the teensy weensy Twizzy electric car (which anyone can hire) and lighting a candle of thanks at the Madeleine church …all this in two magical days.
P.S. Need Paris info? pl mail email@example.com, twitter instagram @rashmiudaysingh
Whoa! What energy! Aamchi Mumbai is rocking with youth and energetic bars and nightplaces…from Colaba (Colaba Social) through Parel (PDT) to Andheri (Boveda). Before leaving for Los Angeles, I visited each of these new arrivals. Thumbs up to the infusion of youthful energy.
Boveda in Andheri is not only for the young nightbirds but is also set up by two 24 year olds and has an equally young chef.
The sprawling 2,500 sq feet space with it’s suspended retro bulbs, wooden crates for lamp shades exposed brick walls give it an industrial look. A long dramatically lit-up bar and an outdoor patio complete the décor.
FOOD DRINKS AND GIGS
43 starters and 6 mains. Dinner is obviously not what you go there for. Plenty of drinks and gigs is what you do go for…there is no entry or cover charge. DJ s (Arjun Wagle Ma Faiza, Ankytrixx, Sanjay Dutta) artists ( Whirling Kalapas, Nikhil D’zouza etc) rock the place..
Ask for the robustly spiced, tossed spiced mushroom jalapeno, the deepfried tasty veg croquette plump with paneer and spinach. Enjoy the dominant paprika flavor of the spiced chicken. I particularly liked the smoked haloumi cheese on the American pizza. Desserts were woefully lacking, the chocolate ganache tart was good but not the greatest.The must try signature Bóveda cocktails – BVD, Spiked Old Fashion, Melon Ball and The Green Beast.
More maincourses are definitely needed. And some of the dishes on the menu, like the chorizo prawn stew with pao, the Madras curry chicken with rice lack the zing and don’t pass muster. Ditto for the halumi potato mushroom butter garlic starter. More desserts please!
Open only in the evening, this fairly new Andheri arrival is already rocking. Boveda (“vault” in Spanish) doesn’t mean you go looking for Spanish food (there are a few dishes). Don’t go for looking for dinner either, do go for a great night out (plenty of action) cocktails, well-plated starters (please see photo) and a lusty, young vibe. Rock on!
BOVEDA G04, Morya Landmark One, Plot B-25, Off New Link Road, Oshiwara Village, Andheri (West). 67080858/59
Rs 1800 for two without alcohol
Open 6.30pm to 1am
RATING FOOD 3.5 SERVICE 3.5 DÉCOR 3.5
A TASTE OF HOLLYWOOD
Hot, hotter and haute. Newest to the iconic legendary Los Angeles restaurants… I am eating non-stop (guided by my friend, the LA Times food critic, Irene Verbila). Here reality is more exciting than fantasy. See the accompanying photo and you’ll know what I mean. Long necked swans glide gently past
Wolfgang Puck’s (America’s uncrowned King of chefs) restaurant as his multi-talented executive chef Hugo Bolanos conjures up the most exciting Californian produce driven dishes. Here in Belair, amid the serene, the worlds most romantic 12 acres of lush green paradise, Hollywood legends like Grace Kelly , Marilyn Monroe have lived and dined for over 5 decades. Even today this romantic haven is full of stars lounging in the Californian cool sunshine.
Here’s the hottest new three month old restaurant “Flores and ladies gunboat society” (Southern American fare to kill for). Mario Batalli’s “Pizzeria Mozza” the century old, open 24 hours “Pacific dining car”remain favorites . Quite the opposite is Jose Andres cutting edge “Bazar” as good as ever. Ive just received the most precious courier (from Napa valley) the of the most luscious peaches and pluots from the worlds most legendary fruit grower “Frog Hollow farm”. All thanks to our very own globetrotting gourmet and finance whiz Arjun Divecha. Meanwhile the swans are gliding gently as I savor Wolfgang Puck’s signature steak over sundaybrunch and hey! Lionel Richie is on my neighboring table. I have stars in my eyes…and hey waiter is that a star in my soup?
PS Should you need more info on LA eateries please firstname.lastname@example.org FB, instagram, twitter @rashmiudaysingh
“Ireland se aaya mere dost, dost ko salaam karo”. A couple of months ago, our very own rocking Irish House (the largest one yet) set up in Andheri. More than a year ago, the first of these Irish triplets was born in Phoenix Mills, followed by Kala Ghoda. Ive eaten and “happy houred” at all, also given a thumbs up verdict as we did in our latest Andheri checkout. Richard Koszarek is famous for his steaks, pork chops and beans, while Amrita’s mutton pickle is legendary.
The well-traveled foodie couple Amrita and Richard Koszarek not only spend a lot of time in London but Richard particularly enjoys the pubs there. They say Yes! to The Irish House.
Everything in this predictably themed, wooden-decored space is larger than life; from the expansive, high-ceilinged hall to the TV screens. Brick walls with trademark Irish house posters (take time to read them Beer Ladder, the Whisky Wall, Beer Kegsand thePost Box, Community tables…you name it.
FOOD & DRINK
Large (that word again) portions of deep fried fare (be it the blistering chilli poppers oozing cheese, or the fleshy mushrooms crunchy with pine nuts) is tasty. On recommendations from (@mihirsagar @dina_bshah @harpr iya_kohli
@abbas_974@thebombayfoodie) I try the Chicken tacosBeer Can Chicken cordon bleu and Grande nachos, pail of Popcorn et al . Chicken tenders are better in Kala Ghoda but otherwise all the rest of the fare satisfies.Well-stocked bar, with 42 types of beer from across the globe (draught beer is served in Kegs & Towers) Richard recommends the Erdinger wheat beer and Stella Artois. Try the innovative cocktails (Irish Trash Can, Irish Car Bomb)
The oven was not working the night we were there so Richard couldn’t get his Steak ‘n Kidney Pie. Too many deepfried, overdone starters. The large wedge of oversweet Irish Chocolate Torte and the Kahlua Mousse were avoidable.
Packed, bustling and vibrant…Ive checked out all three Irish Houses at different times of day and night.Each time, I found that when the high-ceilinged space is sufficiently crowded, it has a lived-in, age-softened feel.
And when most of the generously portioned dishes appealingly complement the atmosphere, it hits the sweet spot. No gourmet flashes, it’s mostly a mix of pub stalwarts comfort foods at comforting prices. Happy hours ( 5 to 8pm ) add to the happiness. Want a cheery, beery, noisy time ? (age no bar) this way please !
The Irish House, 1st floor, Fun Republic, Opp. new link Road, Andheri (West) 61046161
Open, 12 noon – 1am
RATING FOOD 3.5 SERVICE 3.5 DÉCOR 4
Meal for 2: Rs 2000
A TASTE OF EMMYCITEMENT
I’m eating and drinking Emmycitement…er excitement. Here, in Hollywood, this glamorous land of eternal sunshine, the air is so thick with excitement over the high-voltage Emmy awards that I could slice it and pop it into my cocktail glass (which I do too). And its evident through all my eatingsbout (from the Voltaggio brother’s “Ink” Nobu’s first ever restaurant “Matsuhisa” to the king of chefs Wolfgang Puck’s “Spago). But it’s in the iconic rockstar “Sunset Marquis” where for over 50 years not only have Emmy, Grammy, Oscar winners, legends (including our very own Bachchan family) stayed but their bar manager and actor Tony Nuncio has been making waves in Hollywood with his latest creation of the cognac based cocktail “Breaking Dad”. Not only does it celebrate the Emmy winner of 2013 of the same name but also George Rosenthal’s love for cars and his son. Bacon and seasalt popcorn compliment the drink and Im excited to be in Los Angeles on the night of the Emmy awards!
P.S. Ive been overwhelmed and overjoyed by your response via instagram posts to my request to #dinewithrashmi. Im so sorry that Ive been away so long and unable to keep my promise. Will surely do so as soon as Im back.
Pizza and pasta
Happy surprises: I am sure you love them too. I serve up one today. It’s a Value for money, cheery new pizzeria which shot into fame after it started drone delivery services. But that’s hardly why I commend Francesco, especially since I write this from the pizza capital of the world, NYC.
It’s tucked into the ever evolving urban theme park of Phoenix mills. This seriously small, wooden-floored, white-walled, brightly lit eatery with oval mirrors on the walls (which make the café look bigger) has simple, functional white wooden tables.
Fifteen varieries of pizza (we love the thin and crisp yet fold-able when you crack it, crust.). You can choose the size of pizza…
7inch (Rs 220) 10inch (Rs 13inch) and 13inch (Rs 475) and your toppings too. For me, pizza has to be in erotic union with pepperoni (thumbs up to Francesco s). The passionate young Mikhael Rajani ensures plenty of vegetarian options .
The truffle pizza delights but could do with more of my musky favorite.
Try the robustly spiced Peri Peri Pizza, ( paneer and chicken options).
Tasty ravioli stuffed with beet ( Rs 325) but too expensive for the small the portion. Aldente Spaghetti aglio olio. Broffle (brownie waffle), the tiny, tenderfirm Cheesecake and the plain looking bambolino buns stuffed with chocolate come out tops.
Francesco has stabs of ill-advised innovation, like the
the dryish Bianca Salmone with too little salmon, the ggplanty parmigiano pizza and the red velvet waffle which is just a waffle gone red. Noisy when packed (which it is most of the time). No beer (a must with a pizza) or wine.
I welcome this open through the day, cheery, small, well-priced pizzeria. It is clearly driven by the mission of feeding you well, as opposed to giving you food for thought or gourmet fare. Of playing to your tummy instead of your imagination. And with it’s comforting pizzas and pasta it executes that mission more dependably than many other pizzerias with similarly modest but noble ambitions. Mama Mia (please note my Indian accent when I say that)
Shop 9-11, Next to L’vista Furnitures, Skyzone, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Open 11 am to 11.30 pm
Meal for two: Rs.1000|
RATING FOOD 3.5 SERVICE 3.5 DÉCOR 3
GOD IN NYC
Pardon the blasphemy! I’m convinced that God lives in this adrenalin-fuelled dagger-shaped New York City. How else do I explain the most divine of palate-pleasures on the street to my transcendental experiences in the greatest cathedrals of cuisine? I’ve been in NYC less than 30 hours and am already getting blown away by
dish after dish’s visual and gustatory starbursts. I write on my laptop from this sublime heaven of haute cuisine (also a shimmering
Parthenon of pleasure ) – Daniel Boulud’s Daniel, which has been crowned with 3 Michelin stars for the past 21 years and continues to reign supreme.
The ever smiling spectacularly brilliant Daniel’s creative French 15 course menu dazzles, and pairing these with wines is NYC’s best sommelier, our very own Raj Vaidya (originally from Mumbai). My dinner companion Rahul Nair, NYC based foodie and screenwriter obviously has food and films in his genes as his father Sameer Nair now heads up a leading mumbai film and TV production company.Last night’s Jean George’s champagne shrimp salad seduced at The Mark, and I had an exciting Lebanese lunch at Ilili thanks to the king of hospitality design Adam Tihany and his lovely wife Marnie.
Within the next five days I will have sniffed out NYCs cheap and cheerful and worshipped at many a haute temple. Please email Rashmiudaysingh@gmail.comtwitter instagram @rashmiudaysingh and I will share the good word with you. Amen!
North Indian. Molecular Gastronomy.
Taaza Khabar: A month old pure vegetarian Indian restaurant goes the Molecular gastronomy way. I was lucky enough to have dined at Ferran Adria, Spanish wizard’s El Bulli (it is now shut) and also at the London’s Fat Duck, Spain’s “El Celler de can Roca”, Stockholm’s Oaxen where I was blown by each one’s amazing creations using cutting edge scientific techniques, ingredients and methods to make the familiar look unfamiliar and vice versa. The question always remains: does this unlikely transmogrification of ingredients and other cerebral shenanigans taste good or not?
This Lower Parel 100 seater restaurant seems to have been kept deliberately non descript ( semi-industrial fit-out with exposed brick walls) to keep the focus on food.
Ever had a vada pao which has a mousse aerated by infusing nitrogen in it?chutney in edible plastic pouches ? Quivering explosive orbs of papdi chat with coriander chutney foam? Happily, they also taste good. As does the pao bhaji fondue. The passionately dedicated owner Aditya Gupta studied up and ensures the use of liguid nitrogen, dry ice, dehydrator a( for dahi bada and dhokla. Siphon for chilli palak soup, alginate bath and more. Rose caviar partners The chocolate flower pot is filled with rasmalai and saffron mousse and sprinkled with pista chocolate soil. Regular North indian fare marks the mains, be it Paneer Kadai, Veg Kohlapuri, Amritsari vadi aloo or the must try dahi pakodi. Gluten free & multigrain Rotis too.
Some dishes are just gimmicks—and lackluster to taste too. The Pani Puri served in test tubes and syringes, being a case in point. Slushy with masala, Rajma in the mains. The Bubbling kulfi ( liquid nitrogen et al) is all show and no go, with over sweet, synthetic sauces. I just couldn’t get myself to try the soap cake with it’s Dairy foam. No alcohol.
I commend this pure vegetarian eatery’s efforts ( starters and desserts) at Molecular gastronomy ensuring measured eccentricity. These dishes validate the experimentation and they reflect a thoughtful, equilibrium between what’s merely edgy and what’s tasty.Not always cutting edge, some dishes tip over into gimmickry. The North Indian mains are predictably comforting and so provide the much needed balance. Jaded vegetarians looking for newness this way please!
SpiceKlub, 8A Janata Industrial Estate, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel (W)
Open 12 to 4pm 6.30 to midnight.
Meal for two Rs 2000
RATING FOOD 3.5 SERVICE 3.5 DÉCOR 3